"Heart attack on a plate." This is what I think to myself as I ingest spoonful after spoonful of the mee jawa goreng ('Javanese' fried noodles) served up at an out-of-the-way stall in SS 3.
The vendor expertly wok-tosses thickish yellow noodles with nibs of fried tofu, nubs of tomato, egg, slices of softened red onion, and potato cubes. Speckled with brown, crunchy crumbs of char, this mee jawa goreng is plenty greasy, but greasy-good, good in that way that food you know you really shouldn't be eating (hot dogs with everything, Milky Way bars, the fatty-crispy skin from a roast suckling pig) so often is.
The garnish - wide ribbons of iceberg lettuce - adds a pleasing bit of freshness and texture, but does nothing to lighten the dish, which has also received a serious lashing of tomato catsup. Catsup catches on potato bits, bringing to mind that scrumptious but so-lubricated-it's-toxic staple of hearty, American diner breakfasts: country fries.
So good, and so not good for me. But you only live once.
Mee jawa sup - the soup being more of a gravy than a broth - is lighter but, for my money, just doesn't sparkle. Its ingredients are identical to those of the fried mee and the thickish gravy is richly tomato-y and admirably spicy. Noodles are springy and a bit chewy, not the least bit overcooked.
But as I sample this version I find that the thrill - perhaps the thrill of saying to myself, "The he** with it, I'm gonna eat every last bit of this fat bomb on the plate in front of me, and I'm gonna love it, too." - is gone.
Mee jawa sup and goreng at Restoran Siong Pin, SS 3/31. Open early morning till about 3pm. RM 6.60 for one plate of each.