Ulu Yum

Restoran Ulu Yam is a named after a small town about 20 kilometers outside of Kuala Lumpur, said to be the origin of it's specialty, lam mee. We're here in Kepong, after more than an hour of highway gridlock and aimless cruising as I try to decipher a map (the trip home takes only twenty minutes), on the advice of a colleague of Dave's. Judging by the number of families packing out the tables (and packing it in) just before noon on a Sunday, said colleague knows her lam mee.

We've been down this road before - the lam mee (a.k.a. lum mee) road, that is - at the marvelous May King in the Pudu section of Kuala Lumpur. But we realize Ulu Yam's lam mee will be a different animal when the crusty gent taking our order asks if we'll have vinegar (vinegar? not detectable in May King's version) cooked with our noodles, or take it on the side. The vinegar in question is robust Chinese black vinegar (most often found in bottles labelled 'Chekiang Vinegar') and it just so happens that we are hardcore fans of the stuff from way, way back. In fact, we're of the opinion that a dish can never include too much Chinese black vinegar. We'll have it cooked with the noodles, please.

Our host suggests fish cake ('Very tasty, very nice.') to tide us over  while our lam mee is prepared. It's admirable - pleasantly fishy and springy, without being rubber-ball bouncy - but doesn't inspire reveries. Dave, a bit of a fish cake connoisseur, observes that the deep-fried coating could be crispier.

But Ulu Yam's lam mee does not disappoint.

Served in a hulking bowl meant to be shared (potentially a problem, for two greedy eaters like us), it's a steaming hot concoction of thick yellow noodles and Chinese greens in a thickish (but not gloppy) fish-based gravy flecked with silky threads of egg. The substantial, chewy noodles and fleeting hint of black vinegar in the gravy make for a flavor profile reminiscent of the sort of stir-fried noodles served up in Shanghai. Our mainland taste memories are further stoked by Ulu Yam's oily, fiery, and slightly sour chile sauce.

In addition to greens and noodles our lam mee sports a token prawn or two and a generous number of rough-cut pieces of porcine goodness. Like much of the pork we've encountered in Malaysia (and very little of the pork you'll encounter in the US, these days), these chunks are intensely flavored, as if the pigs here had extra piggy-ness bred into them. 

A ladleful of lam mee, a splash or two of that black vinegar, a big dollop of chile sauce, and a sprinkle of white pepper - heaven in a bowl.

As we pay for our meal I try to engage the crusty gent in conversation about the restaurant's wonderful chile sauce. He's not biting; he knows it's one of a kind, and there's no way he's divulging the details. He does allow that it's made from dried chilies, that the source of its sourness is tamarind, and that 'the secret is lots of garlic'.

Not much to go on, but I guess it's a start.

Restoran Ulu Yam, No. 57, Jalan 3/62A, Bandar Sri Menjalara, Kepong. (To avoid the mess on the highway, go via Jalan Segambut.) 10am-10pm. Closed Tuesdays.

Comments

[Rasa Malaysia]

I love fish cake too, I wish I can get fresh fish cake here in CA. I can only get the frozen ones and they have a very strong fishy smell. :(

[babe_kl]

this ulu yam place is my parents' fave. there are a few such "ulu yam" places in kepong alone!

in jinjang there is one of a kind curry loh meen topped with the most delish omelette. it's located in a shack next to public bank after turning into jinjang commercial area (where the market is).

[Shiewie]

There is a shop in Ulu Yam itself that is famed for its lor meen (about the same thing, fat yellow noodles in thick gooey sauce), wonder if this is branch. It's somewhat near Bandar Sri Menjalara but further out - head towards Batu Dam from Batu Caves and follow the road signs to Ulu Yam.

[bayi]

Ah....the noodles with black vinegar!!! Slurppp.... My mouth is watering like crazy!