Loh mee is plenty filling, but after a meal like that something sweet seems right.
In Serendah, a speck of a town somewhere between Ulu Yam and Rawang, we speed past a hand-lettered sign advertising 'barfi'. The shop behind it is simply too cute to pass by, so we prevail (OK, I prevail) upon Dave to make a U-turn.
Pall Cova Punjabi shop has been supplying Serendah and surrounds with Indian sweets since 1967. It's a couple of days before New Year's Eve, 2006, and Krishen Lal has already repainted his wooden display case to mark its fortieth birthday.
There's lots on offer here - pall khua, ladoo, halwa, jelebi - but the barfi is fresh (the shop smells like milk) and, though it's not our favorite Indian sweet, we feel compelled to give it a try.
Mr. Lal makes it himself in a kuali worn matte black with use, on a single gas burner in a small room at the back of the shop. It's just fresh cow milk and sugar, he says, nothing else. Cooked for two hours, the ingredients meld into a sweet rich and dairy-ful enough to make a Punjabi swoon. Cut into squares and cooled, the barfi hardens but melts like butter once it hits the tongue.
Also extremely sublime - perhaps even more so than the barfi - are this man's Indian 'donuts', dark brown and glossy and unusually heady with the scent and flavor of cloves and cardamom.
Pall Cova punjabi sweets shop, No. 14A Main Road , Serendah. Specialists in wedding and festival sweets. Special orders welcome. Tel. 012-3547778.