Coffee With A Side of History
We're suckers for Malaysian coffee shops. We refer here to the genuine article, mind you, not to any of the cute-ified old style-themed shops that have popped up around Kuala Lumpur in the last few years. The latter may be squeaky clean and air-conditioned, and some serve a good cup of local brew, but they don't come with the layers of history and the retinue of characterful regulars that places like Penang's Toon Leong do.
This year is Toon Leong's seventy-first in business. The shop is known for its coffee and coffee powder, sold by the kilo. A sign on the wall behind the check-out counter proudly proclaims, 'The Best Coffee Powder Sold Here Retail.'
Time seems to have passed Toon Leong by. It's not listed in Rasa Rasa Penang, a locally-produced, meticulously detailed guide to the island's hawker and restaurant food. And on a Sunday morning it is not particularly busy. Its nasi kandar stall is doing a somewhat steady business, and a noodle vendor serves up a bowl here and there. Next to the noodle cart, the Hainan chicken rice stall is closed up.
Most of the customers are regulars of a certain age nursing a pot of tea or a cup of coffee. Toon Leong's owner is delighted when Dave takes out his camera (we're here courtesy of our knowledgeable taxi driver, Mr. Goh). We're never sure what the reaction to photographing will be in places like this - sometimes folks scowl, other times they laugh. Here, today, smiles all around. As Dave sets up his tripod at the shop's entrance the owner hurries behind the service counter and strikes a pseudo-casual pose, back straight and face to the lens (you can just make him out above, to the left), as customers gently razz him.
We wonder what will become of Toon Leong. The shop is brilliant, occupying a lovely colonaded corner unit that catches cooling cross breezes. Booths and tables are well-placed for prime street-watching. The owner's son, who looks to be in his fifties, helps out at the shop, and perhaps he'll keep things going after it passes to his hands. Or perhaps not - there are so many other old-style coffee shops in Penang, and most of them are packed with busy hawker stalls and crowded with customers jostling for tables from early morning to closing. How long can this little gem subsist primarily on the sale of coffee powder? Or, maybe Toon Leong sells so much coffee powder that it needn't place a priority on famous hawker fare.
Toon Leong's coffee? Delicious: dark, thick, and fragrant - and packing a hell of a punch. The best, perhaps, in all of Penang.
Toon Leong Coffee Shop, Jalan Transfer at the intersection with Jalan Argyle, Penang. Early morning to mid-afternoon.
The nasi kandar is quite good. I remember going there with my parents/ aunts/ uncles/ cousins. Do they still have a jukebox there?
:-)
Cupcake
Posted by: cupcake | July 23, 2007 at 03:38 PM
I'd love to have that second photo framed and hanging on my wall. So charming! Great job, Dave!
Posted by: Nate 2.0 | July 24, 2007 at 01:26 AM
I'd love a cup of that coffee.
Posted by: Steamy Kitchen | July 24, 2007 at 08:34 AM
We just love our local brewed coffee. There's just too many to choose from. My personal favorite is Hai Peng over in Kemaman Terengganu. This one right here, I have yet to taste. Must be good lah!
Posted by: Riz Ainuddin | July 25, 2007 at 12:20 PM
I really like the photo/story about the coffee shop. It takes me back to the simpleness of Thailand. What a wonderful country and people.
Your photo's are really nice. I found your site through the http://www.bloggerschoiceawards.com where you have been nominated for the Best Photography Blog.
You can add a brag badge to your blog so that you can collect more votes. The code is on the same page that people can go to Vote For This Site! http://www.bloggerschoiceawards.com/blogs/show/16665
Posted by: Saul | July 28, 2007 at 03:41 AM
Cupcake - we'll have to head back for the nasi kandar, then!
Nate - if you'd really like a print we can probably work sth out.
Steamy, Riz - it is quite a good cuppa.
Saul - thanks for the heads up re: blogger's choice. Glad you enjoyed the post. We really like Thailand too.
Posted by: Robyn | July 29, 2007 at 04:52 PM
I can not express enough, how much I admire all the photographs on this site.
It always makes my day better by looking at this site.
thank you!
Posted by: Em Smith | July 31, 2007 at 09:19 AM
Em - that's really nice of you. Thanks for the kind words!
Posted by: Robyn | August 01, 2007 at 01:39 PM
First of all, I love reading your blog!
Speaking of Malaysian local kopi, have you checked out the stall in the Imbi market?
Posted by: coco | August 07, 2007 at 09:18 AM
The highly acidic nature of regular coffee can alter the specific pH balance in our body
Posted by: Gas kit | January 19, 2008 at 11:11 PM