My article on lechon (accompanied by Dave's photo) appears in today's Wall Street Journal Asia 'Weekend Journal' section.
I can't reprint the article in full here,
nor can I link it (the WSJA site is subscriber-only). So I'll just share the final paragraph, which highlights key points of lechon connoisseurship and etiquette:
As to the mark of a superior lechon, aficionados are in agreement. 'The skin must be smooth and crunchy and easily separated from its underlying layer of fat,' says [artist, writer, and chef] Claude Tayag. Traditionally it's the crispy skin that is eaten first. As the lechon is served, diners gather around the table, awaiting the signal to dive in. Self-control is advisable, warns [managing director of Quezon City's Restaurant 9501] Myrna Segismundo: 'The guest who is greedy and takes too much skin will not be invited to the next party.'