Wet? Or Dry?

It's a question every char koay teow fan wrestles with at one time or another.

Is this unofficial Malaysian national dish of stir-fried wide rice noodles best generously sauced and tinted an even black-brown? Or should it be taken light of soy and pale of color, every speck of wok hei'd char visible to the naked eye?

I have long counted myself among those who adhere to a preference for the latter. The inspired versions of char koay teow served here, here, and here had me convinced that light and dry is best.

But a recent lunch at Jalan Klang Lama (Old Klang Road) stalwart Restoran Theng Wah made me rethink my bias. I flirted with the dark (and wet) side, and it tasted pretty good.

Purists may argue that the noodle dish pictured up top isn't a true char koay teow. Though it incorporates the required blood cockles, eggs (light, fluffy, and left in big pieces rather than broken up), bean sprouts, and pork (char siew, in big, rustic, rough-cut slices), this version omits prawns, adds choy sum (Chinese mustard), and is served with chopped fresh chilies and soy sauce on the side ('Heresy!' some readers will hiss).

Well soaked in soy sauce, it evinces a characteristic char koay teow smokiness. The optional fried egg crown (or, if you prefer, side order) may seem a gilding of the lily, but the runny yolk makes it an inspired addition to a classic.

This vendor's been doing it (char koay teow, that is) his way, with a recipe and at a stall inherited from his father, for over thirty-five years. You know what they say about practice.

I've gone over to the dark side. Until the next unparalleled dry version lands in front of me, that is.

Char koay teow stall at Restoran Theng Wah, Jalan Klang Lama (across from Taman Bukit Desa), Kuala Lumpur. Morning to early afternoon.

Comments

[Renee Lee]

The vendor looks like such a happy chap! I find both types delicious in their own different way

[DW]

To me, the distinction is less about wet/dry as much as Penang style vs non-Penang style char kway teow.

When I get a hankering for the wet stuff, I get myself a plate of wad dan hor (Cantonese style silky egg hor fun).

Anyway, why haven't we all surrendered to the superior deliciousness of belachan-flavored Penang-style CKT? Who _are_ those people still eating non-Penang style? ;-) Come over to the shrimpy side. It's smellier, but tastier.

[Nate]

Wet or dry, I'll take any plate of CKT that comes out of a wok of a master with that much experience (even if he *does* use gas) ;-)

[Kevin]

Any dish involving runny yolk is a dish I can get behind.

[Shiewie]

The light pale of colour version is Penang-style CKT whereas the dark, wetter version with choy sum thrown in is KL-style CKT.

KL-style Chinese hawker food uses dark soy sauce - CKT, KL Fried Hokkien Mee (as opposed to its paler cousins from Penang and Sinagpore), wantan mee.

However, over the years, with the influx of Penang CKT sellers setting up business in KL, the pale version is now commonly avaialable in KL too.

[Robyn]

Renee - he was happy about the photographs. The best kind of subject.

DW - oh, it's been too long since we've had wad dan hor! I'm also on the shrimpy side. Belacan anything is fine with me.

Nate - yes, this could only be improved by cooking over the coals.

Kevin - I'm with you there.

Shiewie - thanks for the clarification. Still waiting to find a Penang version in KL that tastes as good as the stuff in Penang....

[Saida]

Robyn
I just read your interview at Food Candy. I absolutely agree, Malaysia due to its diverse ethnic make up offer a wonderful assortment of to die for food. I am here in the states is dying for Malaysian food, hopefully I can make it this summer after a 7 years hiatus.. yikes. I do not think that Malaysia will be like Singapore or Hong Kong; minimal requirement to establish food stand ensure that people can do it with little hassle. When regular folks can earn and keep their hard earn money they will be happy citizen which is good for the country! Ahhh those kway teow.........

[bayi]

I count myself lucky as I enjoy any food that is tasty and cooked well. I enjoy both the wet and dry versions of CKT. I have been to this CKT stall before and enjoyed it very much. And now that it's featured, I intend to revisit it. Usually it's with extra cockles for me!

[Mama BoK]

Can't help but think of the so many different kinda food.. i can blog about if i were in asia. In Yarmouth.. there is hardly anything.. i wanna eat.. nor closely delicious..! sad.. !

[bayi]

Robyn
I just went back to this place for a plate of CKT today. You wouldn't believe it. At a quarter past four, the shop was full. Almost every patron was waiting for his plate of CKT! I had to wait for half an hour to get mine! It's still as good and with extra cockles, the taste is heavenly! Wow!!

[Ann]

Of course I have no opinion on the distinction between the two... having never had either version. How I'd like to taste them! Beautiful photos, as always.

[Lovelymalaysiafood]

Hello robyn. I hope you don't mind, but I tag you for a meme.

[Simon Seow]

This is most likely a KL style CKT. The use of Choy Sum is one of the evident.

[Jennifer]

Wet or dry? Do I have to choose?