Bangkok's Best Isaan?

Quite possibly, yes. And it's not even cooked by Isaan natives.

Bangkokian Puang Paka (left, above) opened Benjarot ('five tastes') in Bangkok's Nang Leong neighborhood over thirty years ago. The building in which the restaurant resides (3 tables in the downstairs open-air section, more up, with air-con) belonged to her mother. Relatives wanted to sell it, but she disagreed. To justify keeping the building in the family she started a business on the ground floor.

Why not Isaan food?  she thought. She began alone, preparing the menu's two items - nya nam tok (grilled beef salad) and laab - by herself. As she cooked, she asked relatives and friends to taste and criticize, and her skill in the kitchen grew. Over time, she added other dishes: somtam, fried rice, fried chicken, 'exploded' catfish salad. As a boy her son, Thongchai Cheynim (right, above), helped out everyday from 4am. Now retired from government service he, along with his sister, cooks and waits tables and manages the day-to-day while mom keeps a watchful eye over everything.

Our dining companion, the man who steered us here, has lived in Nang Leong all his life, and he's been eating at Benjarot since it opened. We understand why. We've enjoyed - we think, since we've actually never journeyed to Isaan - spectacular Isaan fare. But the food at Benjarot is a cut above. There's close attention to detail here. Ingredients are pristine, of the highest quality. Benjarot elevates this easy-to-like 'upcountry' fare beyond hot, spicy, and filling to utterly sublime.

First up, somtam (green papaya salad). The flavors are clean, distinct - we taste the sugar and the lime juice and the fish sauce, and we can differentiate the acidic tang of the Thai plum tomatoes from that of the green papaya. I ask for 'phet-phriaow' (spicy-sour), and after tasting I suspect the owners go light on the 'spicy' because we're farang. Nonetheless, this is a standard-setting somtam.

Tom yam gung, sour and spicy shrimp soup, is enriched with coconut milk. Is this inauthentic? We've never encountered a coconut milk-thickened tom yam gong.

Who cares? Look at those shrimp (2 photos above) - huge, plump, cooked just long enough but not too long, so they retain just a little crunch. We know with our taste buds that the heads of those crustaceans have totally given it up for the broth, which is complex but not overwhelmingly fiery, silky rich but sour enough to balance the coconut milk. It's so divine that I find myself shredding kaffir lime leave and tough lemongrass stalks between my teeth, just to extract every last drop.

In Bangkok, a piece of fried chicken is a dime a dozen. Not Benjarot's bird, which is better even than that of my late Arkansas-resident great-grandmother. Breast pieces are usually to be avoided at all costs, but this white meat is moist, oozing savory juice, tender. The crispy skin is so devoid of grease that one wonders if there's someone in a corner of the cramped kitchen squeezing the oil out of each piece of bird after it comes out of the hot oil.

Apparently not.

The highlight of our meal is the catfish salad (bplaa dook foo). We've enjoyed many versions, but this one exceeds expectations (after a parade of fine dishes). We appreciate that the dressing is served on the side so the salad doesn't wilt before its time. We love the amazing uber-crunchy, candied-but-not-flossy texture of the catfish, and the toasted cashews are an inspired touch. Is this the ultimate 'Thai-taste' dish? Three kinds of crunch, raw-and-cooked, salty and sweet with a bit of sour and a saucer of chilies to add heat at will. We could eat Benjarot's exploded catfish every day, 7 days a week.

We arrive at Benjarot utterly stuffed, on the heels of a morning of intense snacking. But darned if we don't dip into every dish, and greedily at that.

Bad news for Bangkok-bound weekenders: Benjarot is open only Monday through Friday. But this is one experience worth extending your holiday by a day for. They just don't make Thai food like this outside of Thailand.

Benjarot, Thanon Krung Kasem (almost at corner of alley called Trok Nang Loeng 1), Nang Loeng, Bangkok. Mon-Fri 1030a-2p.

Comments

[mycookinghut]

The fried chicken loooks absolutely yummy... with the sweet chili sauce for dipping... that's heaven!

[Xander]

I have no idea whether or not it is authentic, but one of the best dishes of tom yum koong I've had was made with coconut milk. It made the dish so much richer, and it seemed as though the flavors and spices had melted into cream.

This place looks great- I'll have to get out there as soon as I figure out how to get there. -X

[Thip]

All dishes are my favorite. Here they don't serve tom-yam-goong with coconut milk--may be they don't want customer to misunderstand between tom-yam-goong and tom-kha-gai. It is common in Thailand that we serve tom-yam-goong with coconut milk, unless people ask for tom-yam-nam-sai--meaning no coconut milk.

[Robyn]

mycookinghut - I just made myself hungry rereading the post! :-) With my fried (and grilled) chicken I prefer the spicy sour sauce in the back. But either way, it's a great fried bird!

Xander - Krung Kasem runs perpendicular to Thanon Nakon Sawan, near the klong (forgot the name). I understand that there is a bus that runs from Khao San to the Nang Leong neighborhood. Unfortunately there is no train, but you can take the BTS to Phaya Thai and catch a cab. The Royal Princess Hotel is very nearby.

Thip - thanks for the info. Tom kha gai is another favorite ... next trip. ;-)

[Jon]

Hi, what a wonderful post. I'll be in Bangkok the 25th of this month but, for only that day. I am not familiar with the address could you please help me with how to find this place. I really would like to try tom yum koong with coconut milk, it sounds wonderful. Jon

[sweetrosie]

Fabulous story and photos. Inspired me to Google Isaan to find out more.

Your posts seem so "alive" to me. They are so vibrant - like a video, if that makes sense :) I love them - highlight of my day! Thank you.

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[Mama BoK]

Awesome pictures.. and review.. but i expected nothing less tantalizing.

[rokh]

awww, now i found a restaurant i really want to eat, i love isaan food, and i am no longer going back bangkok! help!

[Bill W, NH, USA]

Just happened upon your wonderful site. I was stationed at Nakhon Phanom (about as Issan as it gets) from early 1973 to early 1975 and found Issan food much to my liking. Just about every night I dined on Lob, Cow Nio, and Somtum, all prepared by my matronly land-lady. I know, sounds boring, but it just seemed right and that's what was on the table (floor) and I never tired of it. But, I also developed a strong liking for Tom Yum Goong and had it for a late night snack after consuming many beers. I had it all over town and never did it have any coconut milk in it. I think I'd like it that way though. Thanks for a great site!!! I'll be visiting often.

[www.thailandholidayguides.com]

I've been to Thailand a few times and love it. The shopping, the food and the nightlife are magnificent. I appreciate the tips you've given on your site, cause I want to go back again soon and enjoy it all over again.