Never, Ever Live Next to a Bakery
That nugget of wisdom popped into my head a couple of weeks ago in Butuan City, as I sat patting my mid-section after all but licking the plate on which had sat, just a minute ago, a slice of sans rival.
Granted, it had been a week of non-stop eating (details to come). But it was really the sans rival that led me to the edge of the cliff and pushed me over.
Our host, you see, lives next to his sister-in-law Margie's bakery. Nearly every meal closed with a parade, literally from the bakery's door to his, of wickedly delicious cakes, cookies, pastries. Sometimes a new batch would appear on the table just as we were finishing the old one, sorely testing my usual take-it-or-leave-it view of desserts.
But it was the sans rival that did me in. Sans rival, 'without rival' - a Philippine confection that demonstrates the usefulness of hyperbole.
Made of layers of meringue sandwiching chopped nuts and buttercream, and frosted with more buttercream, sans rival is deceptively (and dangerously) light and airy. Margie's version incorporates lots of toasted cashews (I've also had sans rival with pistachios) and buttercream that's little more than butter and plain sugar - so buttery, in fact, that it melts if the cake is left out too long. It's as much nuts as meringue and shows a brilliant balance of saltiness to sweet. Our companion, who took to eating leftovers for breakfast, wished for more buttercream between the layers. My hips thank god for this version's 'leanness', if that's the way to describe a cake sporting an inch of dairy fat frosting.
Margie is an inspired baker. Everything her workshop turns out is stupendous. But it was the sans rival that lured me back for seconds. Every single meal.
If you're in Butuan City or Davao you can sample Margie's baked goods at her son Macky's eateries (accompanied, perhaps, by - wait for it - latte made with rich carabao milk), Margie's Kitchen (Butuan City) and Margie's. Or place an order with one of the bakeries and carry something wonderful home.
Margie's Kitchen, 1342 Sentro building, J. C. Aquino Avenue, Butuan City,Tel. # (085) 342-1980
Margie's Bakeshop, 393 M. Calo Street, Butuan City, Tel. # (085) 341-5046
Margie's Bakeshop, Door 3 Jatel building, Tulip Drive, Ecoland, Davao City
Margie's, Villa de Mercedez, Toril, Davao City


Yup, if properly made, it really is 'without rival'. Reading discussions about this on other food blogs, no one seems to know who introduced this in the Philippines -- but everyone agrees its now more popular over there than in its 'assumed' country of origin (France).
Posted by:renato | February 20, 2008 at 03:12 PM
Oh gosh, just the word "buttercream" is sexy. I just want to lick my computer screen right now!
Posted by:White On Rice Couple | February 20, 2008 at 04:13 PM
Sans rival is mighty dangerous! Better go see your cardiologist after this trip.
Posted by:Nate 2.0 | February 21, 2008 at 02:50 AM
renato - yes, the origin of sans rival seems to be a mystery. I haven't found anything written about it. It is really wonderful, though, my ultimate dessert.
WoR Couple - and this buttercream is probably more so than most, bec it's mostly butter (no confectioner's sugar, as in an American buttercream frosting).
Nate - I counterbalanced the sans rival with lots of healthy fish. ;-)
Posted by:Robyn | February 21, 2008 at 08:59 AM
Robyn, Am so glad you got to taste and discovered our "Sans Rival," my favorite of all favorites. It was even our wedding cake! Looking forward to your coming blogs.
Posted by:Guia | February 21, 2008 at 09:14 AM
My mom and I are really flattered with your article. I have never looked at our sans rival cake that way before! I guess it's because I grew up with all those cakes and pastries, and have my own favorites.
I can't wait to read the rest of the articles about your gastronomic adventures in Butuan.
And yes, I plan to have my sugar ang cholesterol levels checked next month, as a birthday gift to myself.
Thank you so much for this!
I hope to see you again in the Philippines!
Posted by:Macky Calo | February 22, 2008 at 02:03 AM
Hi there! I am from Butuan City, and like Macky said, we don't look at Sans Rival that way. My personal favorite is the Cappuccino Brownie. Now, I really need to give that Sans Rival a second look... or second helping. Cheers!
Posted by:mikay | March 27, 2008 at 07:00 PM
I was in Butuan City from March 18 to 31 and visited Margie's several times. Can't wait until the next trip!!
Posted by:Eric | April 10, 2008 at 05:53 AM