Last Malaysian Tastes ... For a While

I'm heading back to the States later this week.

While it will be great to see family and friends, smell that sharp San Francisco air (I'm hoping for fog), return to Manhattan (which Dave and I left 18 years ago - haven't been back since!), and eat fresh flour tortillas wrapped around New Mexican goat cheese and roasted green chilies while taking in the view from my parents' porch, there are a few things about this trip that I'm really dreading. Intra-US air travel, for one, driving on the wrong side of the road for the other, and - most of all - being without Malaysian food for 21 days. I've thought about trying to sneak in some sambal belacan to see me through, but I know I'd be sniffed out by an SFO security beagle in seconds.

So, I'm bulking up on Malaysian flavors before I leave. Saturday afternoon it was assam laksa which, for me, is more quintessentially Malaysian even than char koay teow and nasi lemak. There's something about assam laksa's sourness tempered by characteristically Malaysian sweetness, and the combination of intensely fish-flavored broth with the freshness of mint leaves, pineapple, and cucumber, that tell me I'm not in Thailand or Indonesia or Vietnam or the Philippines, but firmly on terra firma Malaysia. Assam laksa is also truly pedas (chili hot). I know the scuttlebutt is that Malaysian food is sooooo spicy, but I really don't find it so. Assam laksa is more the delicious exception to the rule than an accurate indicator of the overall spiciness of this country's cuisine.

This bowlful was had for lunch from a stall on Madras Lane, inside the Chinatown (Petaling Street) wet market. It's a good version, though I generally prefer my assam laksa soup to be thicker with fish flakes. The addition of chunks of canned sardine (yes, canned) is a nice touch and the sambal (you'll need to ask for it if you don't look like a Malaysian) is truly fiery. In two weeks I will so be pining for this lunch.

Assam laksa stall, Madras Lane, KL Chinatown. 830a-3pm, closed Monday. Note: it's the last stall in the row, directly across from the barley teh stall. Note also that vendors in this market are proprietary about seats - be sure to sit in the section of the vendor from whom you've ordered.

Comments

[offspring]

any suggestions for great eats, preferably street food, in manhattan?

[Robyn]

offspring - not having stepped foot in manhattan for 18 years, I haven't a clue. Presumably I'll have some suggestions in about 10 days. But prob not for street food.

[Chris]

I am pretty sure u can find Msian restaurants in most major cities in the US. I had a really great Msian meal near Harvard(perhaps there are many Msian students there!). Also, bring along some of the assam laksa mixes like Hup Loong. Great in a pinch! A lot of Asian grocery stores here carry do carry a wide selection of curry mixes etc, not as good as fresh from the "wet market" but hey, will get u thru those hunger pangs! Have a great trip!

[susan in HK]

Oohhh, Robyn, assam laksa!! I love it! But you can't get really good assam laksa in HK - last time i had a fabulous bowl was in KL - AGES ago!! have been meaning to make a trip...

[carpetblogger]

Have fun in Amerikastan! I am headed there in 3 weeks and I want Hood Canal oysters.

[Nate]

Robyn,

Aaaack! Assam laksa looks so goood! I can totally relate to gorging on M'sian food before heading back over the pond. Don't even try to get M'sian over on this side - just doesn't compare one.

I don't know if you will have the time, but you're welcome to come down to San Jose, where we can have some good, home-style Mexican food at Goveas. http://chezannies.blogspot.com/2007/06/goveas-mexican-restaurant-san-jose.html

We haven't been there in a while, and could use a good excuse to return ;-)

[Cupcake]

Wait till you try my mum's assam laksa. I'll welcome you back from the US with it ... Have a good holiday!

:-)
Cupcake

[Niall Harbison]

Hi there

I have just stumbled upon your blog. I love the clean design and fantastic photos. I am a blogger myself and always thought that design was key and you have certainly captured that! There are so many food blogs out there these days and being different to all the others is key. I have just started www.ifoods.tv which is a website for chefs, foodies and food bloggers to hand out, share recipes, photos and videos. When i was blogging I always thought i should be getting more traffic as my blog was getting lost in the masses of stuff out there so my new site is aimed at giving food bloggers and chefs a bigger platform! Hope you enjoy it and keep up the good writing and design here! I have now bookmarked you so will be regular reader, Cheers!

[Robyn]

Thanks Nate. I'm in SF for little more than 48 hrs right at the jet-lagged beginning of my trip, but might be back later in the year for longer. I'll be getting my fill of Mexican/southwestern in New Mexico!

Thanks Chris. I don't have free access to a kitchen till I get to my parents', and my mother will not welcome the smell of Malaysian cooking, even if it just comes from a packet. I'll have to wait till I'm back home in KL!

Susan - let us know if you ever make it to KL. The assam laksa's better in Penang but the versions in KL are better than in HK.

carpetblogger - Oysters! I've been promised some in NYC. Though I am partial to west coast oysters, I must admit. Luckily my San Fran lodging is a five-minute walk to an oyster house. :-) Buffalo milk mozzarella, pizza, and lots of wine that doesn't cost $20 a bottle and taste like swill are also on my list.

Cupcake, that is one invitation we will take you up on. Although you *have* been dangling it for going on three years. ;-P

Thanks Niall. To tell you the truth we're feeling it's time for a change vis a vis the blog design. Just haven't had time to get around to it.

[Kian]

Robyn, Welcome back to the U.S. I think you'll be surprised by the availability of relatively good Malaysian food in New York. Let me know when you're in NYC and we'll explore some Malaysian restaurants.

[a]

I've found myself in the US as well. They certainly do love taking things away at customs. I just lost all my holy basil seeds and some other goodies as well! Not cool.

[Simon Seow]

Safe journey back to the States

[Xander]

Wait a minute- are you from (or do your parents live) in New Mexico? No wonder you and I both jumped for Phil's tortilla press. Well, I'm currently envying the roasted green chili you'll be having. -X

[Kitt]

Have a great trip! Maybe it will have stopped snowing by the time you get home! (We had snow three days ago in Denver.)

[Angela]

Robyn,

NYC has some great places for Malaysian, I don't know if its comparable to Malaysia though. I love it. There is a store in Chinatown that sells the belacan too, if you need a quick fix. Let me know when you're around. Maybe we can meet up and I'll take you to those places.

[Jim]

I don't know how you came to love belachan. I tell my wife to keep it out of my food, but it sneaks in there somehow. I also told her many times no fish heads, but sure enough, there was a fish head in the curry a couple of nights ago. She was born and raised in a kampung and although she is quite citified now, you just can't take the kampung out of her.

She can find every food item she loves here in the states, except for her favorite chilies. Plenty of thai chilis, but too hot to make sambal, which she still makes by pounding away, even after her best friend showed her how to make it in a blender.

So when she gets back from her visit back home in a couple of months, her suitcase will be loaded with malaysian chilis. they usually get through...

-jim

[KC]

Robyn - NY does have few good Malaysian restaurants with nearly the pungency and heat of restaurants in Malaysia. Try Malaysia Restaurant (don't you love the name) - little hole in the wall and no frills but friendly staff and great food. It's in a small and easy to miss arcade off Canal St. Good luck.

[KC]

Robyn - NY does have few good Malaysian restaurants with nearly the pungency and heat of restaurants in Malaysia. Try Malaysia Restaurant (don't you love the name) - little hole in the wall and no frills but friendly staff and great food. It's in a small and easy to miss arcade off Canal St. Good luck.

[Robyn]

a - lost a kilo of Philippine rice (for a friend) last night at SFO customs. Last time I try to bring anything edible in (I did declare it though - thought it better to be safe than sorry).

Simon - thank you! Made it here safe and sound.

Xander - I grew up in MI but my folks have lived in Abiquiu for that last 20 or so years. My mom grew up in Arizona and SoCal, so this is home for her. I love NM - spectacularly beautiful! And the food .... I'll have some green chilies for you!

Kitt - thanks. I have fingers crossed for no snow.

Hi Angela - none of my hosts will appreciate my cooking belacan in their homes (esp my parents). Thanks - I'll hold out till I'm back in KL.

Jim - longterm, gradual exposure, starting with fish sauce 30 years ago at a Thai restaurant and working my way up to belacan. ;-) I generally love anything pungently fish-flavored.

KC - thanks for the suggestion!