Banh Mi Snackdown I

Is this the best street sandwich in all of Saigon?

Frankly I'm not qualified in the least to answer, having passed a shameful 2.5- banh mi-free years in the city. But after reading noodlepie's comment on our last banh mi post and - especially - his hot and heavy ode to this District 1 purveyor's version, there was never a doubt but that we'd stop by this now-famous stall on our last trip in August.

This banh mi vendors trades in thit nuong (barbecued pork - patties, in her case) sandwiches. To avoid what we understand can be quite a lengthy queue we arrive just before 5, when she opens for business. She greets us warmly - NOT! But that doesn't matter because we're here for the sam, not the smiles. There's only one customer ahead of us (though she's placed an order for 5 sandwiches). She and I and Dave hover over the the grill, waiting for the meat to turn from pink to crusty brown.

Even though we've been snacking non-stop since morning the pork vapors rising from the grill fire up our appetites, and we hungrily watch as she assembles our bahn mi (just one for the two of us - we had more eating to do that night): a slather of the barbecue sauce that got noodlepie's juices flowing, a dash of hot sauce, meat, the classic carrot-daikon pickle, a couple cucumber slabs, scallion, and plenty of cilantro.

Dave's liking it, but I'm less than impressed. Now, Pieman - a 'harlot of a hoagie'? Only if by that turn of phrase (and an artful turn of phrase it is) you mean 'dressed in something cheap and red'. Perhaps it's a function of the nasty bottled barbecue sauces that peppered my sixties-and-seventies middle American upbringing, but I'm not loving that scarlet goo. It's sweet, it's fakey-smoky, and, worst of all, it  masks something truly beautiful: the flavor of grilled pig.

Then again, maybe my head's completely up my arse, because by the time we take our leave that queue's getting mighty long...

Banh mi thit nuong, stall at 37 Nguyen Trai street in District 1, Saigon, Vietnam. From 5pm. And apparently not on Sunday.

Comments

[Kirsten]

Wow - I love these photos and your post. I spent some time in Saigon and I love it. I love the food as well. And life in Saigon is so interesting!

[neal oshima]

I totally agree with pieman, this is the best banh mi i've ever eaten. I make a point to have several every time I go to Saigon. Hardly a week goes by that I don't think about this banh mi.
A sandwich must balance texture and flavor and this is perfect: the contrasts between the crunchy rice-flour bread, the warm pork sausage, the cool cilantro and the savory sauce are exquisite.
Best, Neal