Lunch on a Leaf

As Dave and I were slurping pork mee on our first morning in KL, we couldn't help but notice that at least half of our neighbors were supping off banana leaves.  A couple of laudatory local reviews taped to this stall's window -- and a thumbs-up from a friend who likes her banana leaf -- led us to revisit New Lay Sin coffeeshop for lunch.

There's something about this nothing-special little coffeeshop that says "KL" -- or what I know of KL so far.  The noise: the rumble of traffic, the scrape of plastic chair legs on tiled floor, the whack of cleaver on chopping block, the clack of chopsticks, spoons, and forks on plastic plates and bowls, the whir of overhead ceiling and wall fans, the din of conversation -- all of it bouncing off New Lay Sin's concrete walls -- add up to a pleasant cacaphony that says "people are happily chowing down".  The scene -- Indian families scarfing pork noodles and Hainan chicken rice, Malay and Chinese couples downing rice and dishes off their banana leaves, elderly guys sipping tea and youger ones slouched in the back over a bottle of beer -- is unique to most other large Asian cities (Singapore excepted). 

At stalls and shops like this one at New Lay Sin rice, curries, and side dishes are "plated" on a large piece of banana leaf.  A pile of rice stakes its claim roughly a few inches south of center, while chutney, "salads"/raita, and cooked veggies are arranged in a row above.  Curries arrive separately, a variety of gravies serve to moisten one's rice, and the whole is crowned with a crispy pappadum or two.  Banana leaf rice is meant to be a literally hands-on affair but -- in KL, at least -- fork and spoon can be had for the asking.

Simple enough.  We placed our order ("Two, please."), and the vendor followed us to our table with our plates ... er, leaves.  Within a few seconds plain white rice and three veggie dishes (potato "salad" strong on turmeric, curry leaf-dominated cabbage and lentils, and cooling cucumber and tomato raita) sat before us.

   

A delicious fish gravy -- really more of a thin soup -- soured with tamarind and chockablock with fresh curry leaves, onions, and black mustard seeds was ladeled from a stainless steel pail over our rice.  Dave ordered chicken curry while I went for the fried fish ... and a few minutes later we broke down and ordered a small plate of the mutton curry as well.

I have to say that the surprise star of this show was the fish.  It arrived on my leaf looking, frankly, like a big, dried-out hunk of crud, but turned out to be a fantastically moist piece of firm, white, flavorful fish with a nearly greaseless, extravagantly spiced (I detected chile powder, fennel and coriander seeds, turmeric, and...?) crust.  Moist chicken-on-the-bone curry was delightfully dominated by chili, yet not overwhelmingly spicy, and the mutton was wonderfully tender.  Perfumed with whole cardamom pods and cloves and pieces of cinammon bark, it also packed a sneaky little chili whallop.

This block of Jalan Tun Sambanthan, a tiny little slice of India, is worth a ramble (especially after a lunch like that one).  Here on this very short stretch you'll find Indian eateries, CD shops blaring Bollywood theme hits, stores selling Indian ingredients and kitchenware and assorted household goods, and tables and glass cases displaying all manner of Indian sweets and fried snacks.   

Banana leaf rice stall at New Lay Sin coffeeshop, 250 Jalan Tun Sambanthan, Brickfields.  By public transport, take the monorail to the Sentral stop.  Upon exiting the station, turn left and continue up the street about 4-5 blocks.  The coffeeshop is on your left.

Comments

[boo_licious]

I am glad you enjoyed the banana leaf rice, we must organise an outing for that as there are so many places to eat them with different curries.

[Robyn]

So many must-do outings, so few days in the week. :-)