A Big Feed Under the Big Tree

I can't claim to have discovered this place. In fact, I will never, on this blog, claim to have discovered any of the Malaysian mobile carts, hawker stalls, coffee shops, or restaurants that I might write about. That would be foolishness, because in Malaysia, if it's good, you can be darned sure it's already been sniffed out, scoped out, and tried out by hundreds if not thousands of Malaysians who are ever on the troll for an as-yet unexperienced gastronomic reason to live.

A few Saturdays ago Dave and I joined a couple of friends -- one of whom introduced Asian Wall Street Journal writer John Krich to this restaurant, which he included in his list of top KL chow picks in a 2003 "Eats" column -- and a friend of a friend for lunch at what Krich named "Place Under the Big Tree". What we have here is a dilapidated traditional Malay wooden house stuck in the middle of a neighborhood of auto body shops. The front yard -- which, yes, is pleasantly shaded by a really big tree -- serves as dimly-lit, tin-roofed kitchen at one end and plastic drop-cloth tented dining room at the other. Beyond the reach of plastic canopy sit a number of umbrella-topped tables.

I simply love food shops like this; they're one of the best things about Asia. Completely unpretentious, cursed by perhaps less-than-genteel surroundings (a busy street, a major highway, a dank alley, a front yard within easy hearing distance of metal saws and gas-powered generators) but somehow graced with an atmosphere of utter relaxation. With spots like this it's all about the food, and when the food is good and you're surrounded by people visibly enjoying the grub you can't help but kick back, dig in, and have a good time.

And so it was with Big Tree. Hakka is the cuisine served here. Sometimes mistakenly referred to as an ethnic minority in China, Hakka are a subgroup of the dominant Han majority who migrated from the country's north to primarily Jiangxi, Fujian, and Guangdong provinces a couple of thousand years ago. The name "Hakka" is derived from the pronunciation in Hakka dialect of the Mandarin characters "ke" and "jia". Meaning "guest" and "family", the characters describe the status of the migrant communities in their newly-adopted homes. From southern and eastern China, Hakkas moved to other Asian countries; in Malaysia, they settled primarily in Sabah (Malaysian Borneo) and the states of Johor, Negeri Sembilan, Perak, and Selangor.

Hakka cuisine is characterized by its saltiness (from the use of soy and preserved vegetables), fattiness (associated with its many pork dishes), and rich aromas (from the use of spices like star anise and five-spice and pungent ingredients like black beans and fermented bean curd). Also by its yumminess, judging from our lunch at Big Tree.

Fish head is a favorite here, and with 5 people we could justify two -- one steamed and strewn with minced ginger and garlic (geung jing)

and another with yellow bean sauce (cheong jing).

These are not just the heads, but the moist and meaty "shoulders" too, so to speak, of freshwater grass carp. The flavor of this fish is mild and slightly sweet -- no fresh water muddiness here -- and its texture is soft but not mushy. Both were delicious, but between the two I veer on the side of the bean paste preparation. Krich describes the sauce as "gloppy" but I'd compare it to a thick, lumpy gravy. Lots of salt from the preserved beans and black beans add even more, but it's all balanced by a hint of sweetness and a slight chili kick. The ginger-garlic preparation is thinner, a bit more sweet, and boasts a caramel-ish flavor (from the browned garlic, I think). Though I preferred the former, no one had to twist my arm to dip into my fair share of the latter.

We balanced our heart-smart fish heads with a good dose of Hakka fattiness, in the form of a dish of braised and steamed pork belly with yam slices (khau yoke)

and yet more pork belly with wood ear fungus (char yoke).

Is there anything that doesn't taste good with a big old dose of fatty pork? Nevermind the sugar, I reckon that this is what can make just about any medicine go down. I am head over heels with Big Tree's khau yoke and the five-spice powder, rice wine, and oyster sauce-induced sweet-savoriness that thoroughly infuses all three layers of pig skin, fat, and meat. The yam, cooked just to tender and not beyond to mushiness, is thoroughly sauced-soaked as well and adds another hint of sweetness to the dish.

Big Tree's char yoke is also five-spiced, but with a somehow stronger hint of anise -- and clove, perhaps? --than its yammy cousin khau. Wide strips of wood ear, in contrast to the rubberband-like nubs that adorn less carefully prepared Chinese food, are both texturally pleasing (chewy and crunchy) and flavorsome while this dish's pork, more stew-meat in texture than that in the khau yoke (but still plenty fatty), is fork-tender.

No Chinese meal is complete without a plate of greens (it also helps to assuage the gnawing guilt often associated with massive consumption of multiple super-fatty meats). Our choice was sweet potato leaves stir-fried with belacan (stinky but luscious Malaysian shrimp paste), garlic, and chilies.

This green veggie, with leaves that wilt as easily as spinach while the stems retain a nice crisp-tender bite (absent any sliminess), may be the ultimate stir-fry green.

Five dishes for five people. Just about right (though if this had been dinner instead of lunch I think we could have taken on another fish head). After paying our bill (all of 60 ringit -- about U$17, including drinks), mopping our mouths, wiping our hands, and stifling a belch or two, we made our way back to the car, a trail of destruction in our wake.

Place Under the Big Tree, opposite 6 Jalan Tiga, Sungai Besi. 11am-4pm, closed Sundays.

Comments

[Kimbie]

Oh my goodness, the moment I read the title I knew where you were talking about! My uncle took me there for breakfast the last time I was there!! I really really miss Malaysian food.

[Edward]

It's also popularly known as the Jalan Chan Sow Lin fish head restaurant.

[Vincent]

Isn't it wonderful that you can go on gastronomical adventures as such for a small price of RM60? :)

[phizackerly]

I'm going to be in KL in less than a week. I will be working through all your recommendations while I am there. I notice Malaysian-food aficionados can never resist mentioning how eye-stretchingly cheap the food is. Not only is it the best in the world - "and so cheap-one!"
Have you tried the PJ SS2 wai sik gai, for a very Malaysian dining experience?

[cupcake]

Love those before and after shots.

[Robyn]

Edward, why Jalan Chan Sow Lin? Is there a story behind that? And what's with the row of other fish head restaurants opposite?

phizackerly -- wai sik gai -- what is it? Elaborate please on the dish and location!

Yes this was amazingly cheap, but in all honestly Bangkok gets the title of cheap (and escellent) eats Asian capital, I think. A lovely noodle, soup or otherwise, will cost you just 25 baht (64 US cents) as compared to the average 3.50 RM (95 cents) for a noodle dish here. And fruit is much cheaper there -- just 10 baht (26 US cents) for a bagful from one of the roving vendors. A bag of teh o ais for 10 baht. Our Fri. dinners in BKK were at an Isaan grilled chicken place with an atmosphere much like Big Tree (busier street, though). A whole yummy charred chicken with blow-your-head-off spicy dipping sauce, a plate of greens (phak beung fai daeng), green papaya salad (somtam), grilled beef salad (nya nam tok), and 2 big Heineken beers for 250 baht
(U$ 6.41)!!! Usually enough chick left over for tah pow.

Don't get me wrong, not complaining, but I do sometimes wonder why the large differences in price between street food in Bangkok and street food in KL (and Saigon -- much more expensive than Bangkok).

[Edward]

Jalan Tiga is off Jalan Chan Sow Lin & most people know where Jalan Chan Sow Lin is. That's probably why it's often referred to as Jalan Chan Sow Lin fishhead restaurant. The one you went to is probably the original one, which is also the one frequented by all whom I know. However I cannot confirm if it's the original. I haven't tried the ones opposite, so am not in the position to comment. Would not be surprised if they are imitations. There are also a few imitations in PJ, including one in Sea Park.

[Robyn]

Edward, thx for the info. I say, why eat an imitation if the real thing is right across the street?

[babe_kl]

we named this place jalan tiga fish head, simply loved this place. hahaha john krich moved to KL from HK after covering KL a few years back. the friedchillies guys made him called me for some info on the eateries around KL

[Orchid]

I'm glad this place is still around. When I used to work in the heart of KL (Jalan Sultan Ismail), this would be one of the places we'd go to for a treat. Meantime, a few "lookalikes" have opened up at Paramount, PJ and also at SS 2, I think. They all serve the same steamed fish, vege but are slightly different in cooking styles as compared with the original Jalan Tiga off Jalan Chan Sow Lin. Seems that some of the relatives of the original restaurant opened up the branches.

A comment about Bangkok prices.
You are right that road-side food in Bangkok is cheaper. However, when you look at the serving size (miniscule!), and you need to eat 2 bowls to fill up, then you'll find it is actually more expensive.
I've asked locals why the servings are so small-they explained that the Thai's eat 5 meals a day, instead of the usual 3 meals. I think that there is truth in that, but because the average wage/earning power of local Thai people is less than it is here in KL, the street vendors can't possibly charge more than 200 - 250 baht.
Also depends on the area where you are at-Silom, Sukhumvit, are usually pricier than the more outskirt areas.

Finally, don't get me wrong, I LOVE the food in Bangkok, the pad thai, stewed pork rice, som tam, are among my favourites.

cheers!