We were advised, prior to our roadtrip to Kampar, a quiet little town straddling the old Kuala Lumpur-Ipoh trunk road, not to leave without sampling its specialties: biskut ayam (chicken biscuit) and roti ayam (chicken bread).
Biskut ayam, a thin, sweet, crunchy "cookie" topped with what can only be described as powdered dessicated chicken, did not tickle my fancy. At all. I can do sweet and savory in one mouthful, but cookie and chicken just don't mix, not in my book. Sure, I'll allow that perhaps the cultural context in which my culinary preferences were molded does not allow me to appreciate the gustatory delights of a foodstuff resembling a Chinese almond cookie sprinkled with Knorr's chicken powder. But I'll leave it at that. For me, the door is ever closed on chicken biscuits.
Roti ayam, however, is a whole 'nother story. It's quite an ingenious creation, really: chicken curry baked in a bag of grease-proof paper that's been tucked inside a huge loaf of bread. This isn't a one-pot meal, it's a one-loaf meal.
But beyond the novelty factor, what does Kampar's roti ayam have going for it? For starters, the curry - red, with plenty of fragrant fresh curry leaves, sour and zesty with chili and a hint of lime - is kick-a**. Big chucks of long-stewed, tender chicken slide right off the bone. And the bread, slightly sweet and eggy (think challah) with a crispy, burnished crust and a tender crumb, is divine on its own, and just this side of heaven dipped in the curry.
I've been pondering the origin of this strange and wonderful treat. Kampar, a mostly Chinese town, also has a fairly large Indian population. Indian curry in a Chinese-style sweet baked dough - here we have the Malaysian ethnic mix on a plate. (I've considered, and discounted, the possibility that roti ayam is distantly related to that most frightening of American mall 'pub' food, chowder in a bread bowl.)
Is Kampar's chicken bread worth a stop on the way to Ipoh or back down to KL? Yes, most definately. I'm fairly certain it's also available to go, to be re-heated, if not baked, in one's home oven. The place to find it is here:
Yau Kee Restaurant, 55 Jalan Idris, Kampar. Tel. 05-465-1738. Open 7am-6pm. About 24 ringgit for one loaf (hey, it's big!).
They have the chicken with herbs version too. Yau Kee is a MUST-GO eateries in Kampar. Recently they opened up their branch in Ipoh. Nice pictures~!
Posted by: kampungboycitygal | 2006.02.19 at 13:28
Intriguing! Is this chicken with herbs version worth a try (ie. how does it measure up to the curry version?). Thanks for the info!
Posted by: Robyn | 2006.02.19 at 17:22
Looks yummy. Look like begger chicken. Sorry for the late post. Was busy recently.
There's a shop called 'Hakka Kitchen' at Jalan Pudu (Don't know the exact address though). Their lui cha is good. But I like my mom's version. Sarawak is full of Hakka people.
BTW, do try the laksa n nasi lemak at Jusco Midvalley. Simply devine. Have to queue though.
Posted by: Fong | 2006.02.20 at 12:24
The herbs version - MUST try too. Its very nice (have not try the curry version yet)
Great post...
Posted by: KG-Food | 2006.02.20 at 13:15
OK then, it looks like it's back to Kampar for the herbs version.
Fong - laksa at Jusco Midvalley. I'm a bit dense but do you mean AT Jusco in the megamall or ....??? What kind of laksa (something I am definately not getting enough of)?
Posted by: Robyn | 2006.02.20 at 13:26
Yupe. There's a food section at the home n applicances section inside Jusco. If not mistaken is at 2nd floor.
I was also suprise to see many people queueing for the laksa n nasi lemak.
You should give it a try :)
Posted by: Fong | 2006.02.20 at 17:57
hmm ... sounds like golden pillow of Singapore. basically chicken wrapped in bread dough. the bread dough helps locks up all the wonderful flavors & aroma :)
Posted by: slurp! | 2006.02.24 at 20:16
slurp - is this golden pillow a restaurant or name of a food? I will find myself in Sing one of these days ... is it a must-try?
Posted by: Robyn | 2006.02.25 at 10:22
Robyn,
the auspicious dish is named such as the loaf is shaped like a pillow, golden becoz of color of curry. meansing it's like a "pillow" (bread load) filled gold "Curry" :)
they got webby here, check it out!
http://www.goldenpillow933.com.sg/
Posted by: slurp! | 2006.02.25 at 23:24
slurp, looks like a taste comparison might be in order. Golden Pillow v. Roti Ayam (I will admit that the former already has a leg up in the competition with the name)
Posted by: Robyn | 2006.02.27 at 19:47
It looks delicious :)
Posted by: melissa_cookingdiva | 2006.03.24 at 00:09
It looks really yummyt! I've also done that in home. But in my case, adobo in a loaf is my favorite! To try something new, I'll try it.
-krisha-
Posted by: knorr philippines | 2009.03.19 at 12:01