Ode to a Kopi Nation

Coffee should be black as hell, strong as death, and sweet as love.     Turkish proverb

Who knew Malaysia has a coffee industry? I didn't, not before planting myself here in Kuala Lumpur last year.

Where had I been all those years? A dedicated (or, if you like, addicted) first-thing-in-the-morning consumer for - yes - decades, I've sipped Sumatran, sampled Kenyan, poo-poohed Blue Mountain (did I miss something there? I wasn't wowed), fallen for Balinese, and come to prefer Papau New Guinean. Though I'm not one to hang out in coffee houses I've done my fair share of high-end bean browsing, but never ran into Malaysian.

No surprise, when you consider that for the last ten or so years coffee production here in Malaysia has held steady at only about 160,000 bags, or 10,000 tons, yearly. To put that in perspective: Malaysia produces just .01% of the world's coffee and lags far, far behind Asia's big three producers (India, Vietnam, and Indonesia).

 

The majority of Malaysia's cultivated land is planted in rubber trees and oil palms (Malaysia is a major player in the world rubber and palm oil markets). Coffee plants cover only 25,000 hectares or so (primarily in Kedah, Kelantan, Selangor, Terengganu, and Pahang states). What little coffee is grown in Malaysia is consumed here, and because there's no export dollars to be gained from the industry there's been no official emphasis on improving the crop's quality.

About 95% of Malaysia's coffee beans come from liberica plants, a little-known variety that's also grown in west Africa and accounts for less than 2% of the world's coffee (most coffee comes from arabica and robusta beans). A liberica tree can grow as tall as 18 meters; its leaves are large and leathery, it produces big fruits and seeds, and it's extremely hardy. Professional tasters describe the bean's flavor characteristics as "undesirable" - thin, harsh, acidic. All of which means that you're unlikely to find a Malaysian bean or blend on offer at your local specialty coffee dealer anytime soon.

It also means that there's a lot of dreck drunk here in Malaysia. But careful cultivation and skilled roasting can make even liberica beans shine. Some Malaysian roasters add sugar during the process, which lends a hint of caramel to the cup. Ipoh's famous 'white' coffee is roasted in butter (or, less desirably, margarine), which makes for one smooooooooth caffeine hit. Though mediocrity abounds, if one heads to the right places - old-style Chinese kopitiam (coffee shops) that boast a regular clientele, single vendors who attract queues, and more contemporary shops, geared to a younger Malaysian crowd, that focus on local brews - it's possible to strike black gold.

Coffee has probably been consumed in Malaysia since the 15th century, having migrated with Middle Eastern traders to the Sultanate of Malacca's ports not long after it appeared in Mecca and Medina, although it wasn't grown here until the British began cultivating it in the Cameron Highlands in the latter half of the 1800s. Malaysia's favored brew method, using a 'sock' or 'butterfly net' filter suspended in a pot of hot water (see above), might have been introduced by Chinese immigrants from the island of Hainan or by Indian Muslim immigrants in the 1800s.

This method of filtering results in a fragrant, strong (with its high caffeine content liberica is known in the industry as the 'no-doze coffee'), thickish cup of coffee. Though some folks take it black ('kopi o'), it's more often mellowed with a generous dose of sweetened condensed milk ('kopi') or with a mixture of sweetened condensed and evaporated milks ('kopi special', at least at some shops). Milk barely alters the color of this rich brew, which stands up well to ice.

Relative proximity to a tasty, restorative cup of local coffee is one of the joys of living - and traveling - in Malaysia. As a slow fooder I'm pained by the proliferation of international coffee chains that would obliterate local coffee traditions and standardize our choice of brews the world over. When I'm Italy I'll have a macchiato; in Istanbul I want my coffee black and thick enough to stand a spoon in. Here in Malaysia you'll no sooner find me in a Starbuck's than a McDonald's. Make it a kopi special please, preferably drunk in an aged, unfashionable kopitiam that places me in a local context and lets me know where I am - that's Kuala Lumpur, not Kansas City.

Where to find a good cup of coffee (readers, if you'd like to share your favorite spot for local coffee I'll update this list with your suggestions):

Kuala Lumpur - Yut Kee, Jalan Dang Wangi; Village Park, 5 Jalan SS 21/37, Damansara Utama.

Kuantan - Kemaman Coffee, corner of Jalans Baasah and Tun Ismail; Stalls behind the Kuantan wet market.

Kuala Terengganu - Ah Hung, 136 Jalan Bandar.

Comments

[phiz]

have you heard of the famous Malaysian civetcatpoo coffee (made of coffee beans that have been eaten by a civet cat, expelled through the excrement, retrieved and then made into coffee)? I've never tried it, but I believe it is true and meant to pack quite a punch.

[shiewie]

More kopi lingo -
kopi see - local coffee with evaporated milk
kopi kao - extra thick / strong kopi
cham - kopi /tea mix

Try dunking a yu tiao / yau char kwai in a kopi o

[Hsian]

Check out Coffee Hut between the Rasta Mamak and Esso Station on Jalan Burhanuddin Helmi in Taman Tun Dr Ismail. Starts from 7pm onwards. Has jars of coffee powder from all over Malaysian including coffee from Muar, Batu Pahat, Kemaman, Kulim etc!

My personal favourite coffee place :)

Give us a buzz when in neighbourhood. I just live across the road. Can have a cuppa together!

[Sticky]

Great post! I love being informed about coffee traditions in different countries. Apart from the liberica beans, the Malaysians seem to prepare and enjoy their coffee similarly, in some ways, to the Vietnamese.

[Robyn]

phiz - I hate you bec. you were just in Sydney and now you're in Mumbai eating homemade veggie curry. But I'll answer you anyway. ;-) Vietnam and Indonesia have versions of civetpoo coffee beans too, forget what they're called. (What's it called in Malaysia?) Tried it once in Vietnam and really couldn't tell the diff.

shiewie, now I'm confused. kopi kao - should I specify 'o' if I want milk or is it always black? kopi see - do some places serve local coffee *and* non-local? Or is the 'see' specifying only evap and no sweetened condensed milk? cham - had this at Village Park. They call it "special champ coffee". Yum!

Hsian, good, you're back, I was looking for youre earlier comment re: this place but couldn't find it. Ugh, 7pm huh? I'd love to go for a tasting but might never make it to bed. OK ... will definately let you know when we go. Thanks!

Hey sticky. Yes, quite similar, that's what I thought too. The whole butter thing (although that's not the rule with all Malaysian roasters). I would say Vietnamese brew theirs even stronger (which is probably why a glass of kafe sua da is so much smaller than a glass of kopi ais). I will say I was quite relieved after we left Saigon to find that I'd landed in another coffee-centric country!

[foodcrazee]

u will find the chivetcat thingy all over Asia with coffee plants....apaprantly chivet cats love to eat coffee beans...

Vietnam have a diffent roasting method and both nation Vietnam and Malaysia have their own coffee flavour. If u brew Malaysian coffee like they do in Vietnam, u will have a strong one too. Let it drip and then mixed in some condensed milk and whipped it up. Thats the SEA thingy aint it.

Great write up

[slurp!]

I thought civet coffee beans were only available in Vietnam, Philippines, Indonesia. so now malaysia also have this?!

'o' mean black, 'kao' mean thick, so
kopi-o (black coffee)
kopi-o kao = think black coffee

kopi special (malaysia) = kopi-C (singapore) which means evaporated milk is added which enhanced the aroma.

'kosong' means no sugar. so kopi-o kosong (singapore) means black coffee with no sugar. not too sure if it's the same as in malaysia.

excellent writeup!

[Gerald]

Thanks for the coffee info, usually I think coffee drinks from Southeast Asian restaurants are too sweet, I think I'll take mine 'kopi o' if I'm ever in Malaysia

[Robyn]

slurp, thx for the addtl info. Think I will add a coffee glossary to this post sometime soon.
Gerald, I agree. I think the trick is to get evap. milk instead of sweetened condensed. I'll be honest and say that when the coffee is this strong I can't take it black (Turkish excepted, 'cause it's just a little cup). Hey - I'm lovin' that slicer (tho' Dave did lose a bit of finger to it first time we used it)!

[shiewie]

Didn't realise it was kopi c in S'pore and kopi special in Malaysia ... have been calling it kopi c (teh c too) for 30+ years in Malaysia ... more for my parents ;)

[JOnes]

Hi

I want to buy from the wholesaler who carry these Malaysian brand coffee that the writer describes. Beside Starbucks here in China, you can hardly find an authentic Asian coffee.

Kindly provide me the contact details.

Keep writing........

[Robyn]

JOnes, I don't have a list of wholesalers of Malaysian coffee, but if you google "malaysian coffee" you'll probably come up with a few. Good luck!

[Ah Ting]

Would like to recomend Kluang railway station coffee (has a branch at One Utama) and Kopi Cap Televesion.

[Basuki Ongko]

Is there anyone in Malaysia who will buy civet coffee in its original form?
It is easier to claim the originality of the kopi luwak by selling the shit it self.
I know some guys who go for the s$$t hunting here in Java.

[kelly]

HI THERE! Wonder anyone can help me sourcing for 10 raw beans malaysia liberica coffee beans with botanical name to be sent for dna test! amazing isn't it that they have found the technology to trace the origin of the beans.

[Gas kit]

A variety of health problems like arthritis and gastrointestinal issues can be caused by over acidity of our system, unbalanced pH and contributed to the consumption of regular, not to say “not healthy” coffee and the negative consequences of caffeine.

[Tang Kok Wai]

Dear Sirs,

Malaysian Robusta coffee, is quite ok if you give it a very fine grind.

Can contact Tang at 0060 012 4972379 to ship some to you.

Thank you.

[Tang Kok Wai]

Dear Sir,

If you would like to try some Malaysian Robuste coffee, please contact [email protected]

Thank you.

[Eason Lee]

maybe u can try look into "Kopi 434"
it is founded in muar of johore and become quite famous in the country.

i've got their website for you!
http://www.saikee.com/main.htm

[Graeme Davies]

I lived in Vietnam pre the war and got to love it. 'Kopi'is available here [ in Melbourne Australia ] but only in certain restaurants.Please email [email protected] if there is a contact here.
With thanks in advance.

[Chibu Loh]

hi check out www.greenvanillastore.com for traditionally roasted malaysian coffee or better known as 'kopi kampung' (village coffee)...ships practically anywhere internationally...

[Ana]

I fell in love with kopi in Singapore, and a kind friend bought me a sock and some coffee so that I can make it here in Oxford. Do you have instructions on how to do it? Thanks!