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Very interesting. Thai food is one of my absolute favorites, but I don't know much about it, other than what I like to order!


What a great post--my mouth is watering! Nice to know more about a dish I love, and your photos are, as always, gorgeous.

I didn't know you used to live in N. Calif...hey, wanna swap for a week or two? You could get your fill of the Berkeley hills and I could silence my pangs of homesickness for Asia:-)


My mouth is watering...I love thai food and I dream of the day I can go visit Chiang Mai and eat and eat and eat.

I am curious though where you are getting your information from...what are your sources (i didn't see anything quoted from).


Kalyn - there's alot more to Thai food that meets the eye. Everytime I return to Thailand I discover sth new. I think you could eat your way around the country for 6 months and still not have sampled everything tasty.

Tea - sounds like a plan. Um, you like dogs (1) and cats (5)?

Rose - bits and bobs from the web and a lot from ... I'm embarassed to say ... dusty notebooks from grad school (long ago I was a Chinese studies major with a focus on protest and rebellion).


well I am a current chinese studies major with a focus on art and unofficially on food. Have you read any of the anthropological/historical books on Chinese cuisine? There are few real good ones


Hi Rose, I would *love* recos for anthro/hist books on Chinese or any Asian (or Turkish) food. I've been out of the loop for a few yrs. Send 'em to my email
Have you seen cookingfire.com (on my links list) - soon-to-be anthro grad student (Chinese studies) with a serious food interest.


Isn't it more likely that the Lan Na Tais adopted Khao Soi ( Ohn No Khauk Swe - lit. coconut milk fold pull ) during Burma's occupation of Chaing Mai from 1500s to late 1700s rather than it being brought to Lan Na by the Hui . In Burma ohn no khauk swe is as ubiquitous as Mohinga ( Burma's unofficial national dish ) and utilises wheat / egg noodles . They are essentially variations on the same theme : egg noodles with chicken in a curried coconut broth thickened with gram flour and rice noodles with fish in a curried fish broth thickened with gram flour or rice flour. ( khauk swe in Burmese means "fold pull" which is the generic term for noodles )


In India there's a similar dish called 'Burmese Khowsuey' . The names must have the same root


Hi Jagger - I have a book called the Calcutta Kitchen that has a recipe for khowsuey. The author claims that the recipe was brought to India by Burmese immigrants.... Is the version in India quite similar to the one in n Thailand which I've described?


Hi Robyn,

Can't cook it myself lol so not entirely sure about the ingredients and as far as I'm aware the Indian version is quite Indianised and diverse but the basic premise is the same and that is it's basically wheat noodles [ often spaghetti ] in a curried soup flavoured with coconut milk . It's often vegetarian whereas from what I know the original Burmese variety uses chicken .

Sarah Meyer Walsh

NO WAY!!! I ate at that EXACT same place while I was recently in Chiang Mai and blogged about it being one of the best lunches of my life!

Our driver whom we had hired for the week took us there one day and I couldn't believe how delightful it was!!!


Find the mentioned restaurants on a Google Map now:


Find the mentioned restaurants on a Google Map now:

Lucy Jensen

Grew up in ChiangMai as a missionary kid. This is hands down the best Kao Soi in town. Always make it a point to eat there when I have the chance to go back for a visit. In fact I am preparing Kao Soi for dinner as I write this.


I was there 2 weeks ago. locals pointed me there and must admit it is the best!!!

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