When It Comes to Duck, Beijing Has Nothing on Chaozhou

"Genuine Chaozhou Stewed Duck." Or so claims a sign in this spit and shined, squeaky clean little shop in Sri Muda/Shah Alam.

Now, I'll admit right up front that what I know about the cuisine of Guangdong province's Chaozhou (aka Teowchow, aka Chiuchow) you could fit in a shot glass, so I'm in no position to judge authenticity. But delectable, yummy, luscious - all these I know, and know well. Any and all of these adjectives accurately describe the fare at Ayer Itam.

First up, the restaurant's namesake: duck rubbed with spices and stewed until it's falling apart tender, beautiful boneless mini slabs served in a pool of warm, lightly soy-seasoned broth complemented by a palate refresher of spritely, bitter Chinese celery leaves and toasty fried garlic. This hillock of meat is meant to be eaten with rice, but quite frankly I opted to leave the white stuff aside and devote my attention to the quack.

On the side, a Sinicized version of (American) southern-style long-stewed mustard greens. These meltingly soft stems and leaves with the odd piece of pork are seasoned hot and sour (more the latter than the former) and go down easy. I could eat a bowl of these velvety stems and leaves just about everyday.

Meicai (if my tin ear caught the proprietess' pronunciation correctly) is a variation on the greens theme: more mustard, but in this case the vegetable is slow-cooked in broth, soy, and a spice combo that hints at anise and cinammon. Meatless and evincing a bit more toothsomeness than its hot and sour relative, this dish o' greens is nonetheless equally delectable.

Ayer Itam has been open just over half a year. Owners Ann and her husband hail from Penang (also known -to Malaysians anyway - as 'street snarf central'), where her grandfather opened the original Ayer Itam Duck Rice Restaurant years ago. The menu extends beyond duck rice to include other, primarily pork and tofu-centric, Chaozhou favorites. If there's any justice in this world we'll be heading back soon to sample every last one of them.

Note: I really would eat those hot and sour mustard greens everyday. If anyone can point me in the direction of a recipe or a place closer to KL where I can dish 'em up or da pao I'd be most appreciative.

Ayer Itam Duck Rice Restaurant, No. 8 Jalan Sepadu B 25/B, Seksyen 25, Shah Alam. Tel. 016-358-2711.

Comments

[Prometeuz]

Congratulation. U found yourself a very good place for authentic TeoChew food. Being one myself, i eat the two dishes quite frequently at home cook by my mum. :)

[kampungboycitygal]

We had this stew vege in our family after the first day and fifteen day of the lunar calender every month. To prevent the left over chicken and roasted pork gone into waste, my mum would cook them with the veges. I miss home now..

[Pat Wong]

Hello Robyn,
The sour mustard green soup has traditonally been prepared using lefovers especially from a festival dinner or wedding banquet. Therefore I find it incongruous that it is sold as a street food.
Notwithstanding this,I cook this dish quite often using roasted pork trotters(fore trotters are preferred as they are meatier).The ingredients are as follows

1)1-2 Roasted pork trotter or roasted pork
2)6-12 dried chillis(or to taste)
3)6 tamarind slices or 2- 3 tablespoons tamarind pulp to taste
4)Ground black pepper
5)Salt to taste
6)Sugar to taste
7)Pork or chicken stock(about 5 liters).
8)Mustard Greens

Method
Put all the above ingredients,except the mustard greens to simmer for about 1 1/2 - 2 hours.Instead of pork or chicken stock,I cheat by using chicken bouillon cubes.When the trotters are soft and the skin and flesh fall of the bones, the soup is ready.When the soup is simmering,check for sourness and add more tamarind if required.This is a trial and error situation because some of the tamarind slices found in Malaysia are inconsistent in quality.
Add in the mustard green last and simmer for another 15 minutes before serving.

[slau]

Re: sour mustard green soup, to Pat Wong's recipe, my family would add carrots and tomatoes as well. Instead of ground pepper, we use crushed peppercorns. It is true that it is usually prepared with leftovers from banquets so really anything can go in.

[foodcrazee]

hmm....looks like pat wong's recipe is good but i would omit the stocks as u can get those from the roasted bones themselves. The origins of the dish was created from leftover after CNY reunion dinner and usually Chinese dont waste cept for nowadays..chuckle...sugar i will omit as well and replace with a lil ketchup to act as a counter to chilli spiciness and as a thickening agent.

cheers!

[Robyn]

OK, looks like I'm not the only mustard greens fan. Now I've got to put these great recipes/tips to use in the kitchen. Thanks everyone!

[easting feasting]

i frequently visit all asian food blogs, you keep an excellent blog and thanks. Your blog is never staled, and your sense of food has that universally connection to me even though i'm not malaysian or chinese.

[Robyn]

easting feasting, a wonderful compliment. Thanks very much!