Yearnin' For a Burnin'

Been here,

chowed this.

And it was de-lish.

We've returned to Restoran Yu Ai, but not for the fantabulous seafood curry noodles. Today we're craving a hit of heat, so it's the tomyam seafood noodles we're after.

If all you know of tomyam is based on encounters with Thai tomyam gung (spicy-sour soup with shrimp), please set aside your preconceptions. The only thing the two have in common is 'hot' and 'sour'.

Malaysian tomyam is Thai tomyam on steroids. Whereas the latter is clear and delicate, the former is brick red and gutsy. Thai tomyam is spiced up with slices of fresh chili; Malaysian tomyam is built on a foundation of ground chili paste. While the Thai version makes a light and piquant accent to an assembly of other dishes, Malaysian tomyam is a hearty meal in itself.

Yu Ai's second floor offers air-conditioned comfort, but we're dining out back, al fresco. In addition to plenty of umbrella and tree-shaded tables, here you'll also find the extended kitchen.

These pots hold backup supplies of tomyam, curry, fried tofu in chili broth (for the curry - opening second photo), and qing tang (clear soup). There's also a heavy, blackened wok big enough to take a bath in; it's put to use early in the morning, when some lucky staff member fries up a mess of pungent sambal.

At 2pm on a Saturday the restaurant - indoors and out - is packed. We wait a good half hour for our order. We're starving, and contemplate waylaying the waiter as he carries steaming bowls of goodness to other tables.

All's forgiven when our order arrives.

It's everything we're looking for a in a tomyam noodle. The flavorful, complex broth is perfectly phet-priow, 'spicy-sour' in Thai. After a few bites our tongues are burning, our lips tingling. The broth is so limey we're nearly puckering. Moist red spots appear on our cheeks, and under our eyes. We're wishing for a breeze; comfortable in the shade just a few minutes ago, now we're sweltering.

We're ecstatic. This tomyam noodle is the spiciest Malaysian dish we've ever had.

Generous amounts of seafood (head-on shrimp, squid, mussels, surimi) are icing on an already sensational cake. Dave likes his fresh mee noodles, but I think my dried yee mee have done a better job of absorbing the delectable soup.

A packet of tissues and about 29 ringgit (about U$8) later, we're outta there. Expensive, you say? Well, until I'm directed to a cheaper, tastier, and hotter tom yam noodle in KL, I'll be lighting my fire at Yu Ai.

Yu Ai Restaurant, 42 Jalan Segambut Utara. 8am-4pm.

Comments

[Prometeuz]

WAAAAAAAAAA...$15 for a bowl of noodle. This must be the most expensive noodle in Malaysia. But, your photos make it a definite must go...so, let's see $15 + $1000...oki Malaysia, here i come.

[Hanna]

Thank you so much for you site! You inspired my first attempt at Thai green curry including the paste today. After taste testing it tons of times, I stopped feeling the heat. Haha! How I would love to go to Southeast Asia, but Japan is seriously overclocking me. If you ever wander up north, give me a shout.

[Robyn]

Not quite Promoteuz -- I think 'sang har mee' would qualify as most expensive at 25-90 (depending on quantity and size of prawns) ringgit per plate. Still, I admit this is a lot pricier than your everyday 3.50 bowl o' noodle.

Hi Hanna, that's great that you're doing your own curry paste. I've got some northern Thai recipes coming up so while you're in the States you might want to pick up some pla raa (fermented fish sauce - thicker and stronger than nam plaa), unless you can get it in Japan. (Oh yes, we'd *love* to visit Japan again, last time was Hokkaido in '98).

[L]

Amazing photos! I wish I could be there to try the noodles, but alas, Seattle is a long way away.

[Sticky]

Geez - the colour of the soup is kind of disarming, isn't it? Looks like a rich gravy.

[Robyn]

Well Sticky, I did say "brick red". Disarming to you, drool inducing to me! It is richer than a broth, but not thick enough to be gravy or a sauce. Malaysian dried chilies are quite dark red, and if you grind enough of those I suppose this is what you get....

[Bobbie]

Just wanted to say I luuuurve your blog. Am sad Malaysian in UK and looking at all the pictures and reading about the food makes me look forward to my trips back home all the more. Droooool!

[Cin]

Whoa! Great looking dish but I didn't know that soup noodles could cost so much! Must be worth it tho'.

[Russ]

ok i just posted on the old page , whoops!
I am salivating all over this blog... can't wait to eat out of those pots!

[Robyn]

Bobbie, judging from previous comments there seem to be a lot of sad Malaysians in the UK. What's up with that? Thanks, BTW.

It's worth it Cin. Next time I'd get the small bowl though, 'cause big just means 'more broth' not 'more stuff'.

Russ, this is definately a must-eat if you pass through KL. And like spice.