West Sumatra's Italian Paradise

Readers, we've been holding out on you.

Last June, after eating our way around Padang, cruising food markets in Bukittingi and neighboring, and taking in the views from the shores of Lake Maninjau, we landed on a little bit of heaven off the coast of western Sumatra called Cubadak Island. I'd planned (but never got around to it) pitch a blurb on Paradiso Village resort to a food or travel publication, so we kept this exquisite vacation jewel to ourselves. Now that I've been scooped by TIME, we might as well come clean.

 

For us - non-'resorty' ('resort wear' is not a part of my wardrobe), hyperactive travelers who tend to get bored after a couple of days of sun and sand - this collection of thatch-roofed bungalows on a large, but nearly uninhabited island is about as close to perfection as a vacation spot dedicated entirely to indolence can get. After a long, hot ride down the coast and a Mayday call to Nanni, the resort's owner, we arrived two days before our reservation. It was the last week of our vacation, and we'd hoped to get in a couple more days of mainland travelling, so we had mixed feelings about ditching our plans and heading to Cubuduk early.

Our doubts began to ebb as our boat approached the dock, where Nanni, the picture of tropical relaxation in perfectly pressed white jeans and a crisp checked shirt, waited to greet us. 'Something cold to drink?' he asked, as he led us into Paradiso's lounge/bar, which sits on stilts over the water (right, photo above). After an icy beer we dragged our sweaty bodies to our accomodation, the resort's one over-water bungalow (top photo), changed into swimsuits, and jumped off our deck into our own private square of sea.

By the next morning, when we woke to the sound of gently sloshing sea beneath our floor boards and a view of nothing but ocean, sky, and the velvety green hills of the mainland from our door, Paradiso had worked its magic. We forgot about the lure of exploring more villages and more towns, bigger and better markets, and new food finds, and set to doing something we hadn't done in a quite a while - nothing at all.

Paradiso Village will not appeal to travelers who can't live without air-conditioning, TV, in-room internet access, swimming pools and spas, and copious, fauning staff hovering nearby to cater to their every whim. But neither is the place quite as 'rustic' as the TIME article implies. This is no backpacker sweltering-huts-on-the-beach operation. Bungalows are carefully constructed with high-quality fittings and decorated with local textiles. Huge windows and ceiling fans assure a constant breeze; mosquito nets keep out the few bugs. The one over-water bungalow features a large indoor sitting area, a walk-in wardrobe closet, and, on the covered veranda, a minibar with fridge. All units are equipped with water boilers. Not luxurious, but not so simple either - and very, very comfortable.

It's the Italian touch, however, that makes Paradiso Village so special. Nanni and his wife Federica, Turin natives, run a tight but laid-back ship. Accomodation is spotless, service is friendly but impeccable, the atmosphere is homey. Being at Paradiso Village feels more like visiting the tropical estate of a well-endowed relative or close friend than staying at a resort.

As might be expected when Italians are in charge, food is anything but an afterthought. Breakfast is taken when you like - perhaps a little homemade yogurt, some tropical fruit, a bite or two of sweet cake, eggs or French toast. To drink, unfiltered Sumatran coffee or espresso pulled from the restaurant-grade caffeine machine.

Lunch and dinner, eaten communally, are an inspired mix of Indonesian and Italian dishes. Every meal includes seafood (but also meat or chicken) of one sort or another; boats chug up to Paradiso's dock early in the morning, and Nanni and Federica select what's best. If you're lucky, sweet mangrove crab, prepared with a ginger sauce, will be on the menu. Or perhaps a gigantic grouper, lightly fried and doused with a savory taucu (soybean) sauce, polpette di pesce - moist balls of chopped fish seasoned with Italian herbs - or briney seafood pasta. Maybe a tender rendang or a fiery preparation of red chile sambal and jengkol (a chestnut-like legume). Vegetables - nangka muda (young jackfruit) blanched and served with olive oil and lemon juice to bring out its artichoke-asparagus notes, thin slices of caramelized roasted carrot, a salad of cabbage or Chinese greens - are abundant. Always gracing the table, a bottle of fine extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling.

And desserts, such as flawless meringue to submerge under chocolate sauce and whipped cream, a light but rich flan that's a coconut lover's dream, expertly fried beignets stuffed with coconut and palm sugar, or an impossibly dark chocolate and coffee ice cream, are incredible.

Nanni is quite the mixmaster, but even teetotalers won't want to miss aperitivo/cocktail hour starting at 7, when the kitchen sends out a steady stream of freshly prepared cocktail snackables like Brazilian-inspired sweet corn cakes and kerepok bayam (huge 'spinach' leaves dipped in a tempura-like batter and deep-fried).

There's ample opportunity to work off the calories - a twenty-five minute hike up the near-vertical hill directly behind the resort, for instance, or a more gentle, but longer, hike along the island's coast. There's a dive center, twice-weekly jaunts to nearby islands for snorkeling, diving, and a substantial picnic (pepper-marinated grilled mackerel steaks), and Nanni can arrange two (or more) day trekking trips on Sumatra or to the Metawi Islands.

Paradise indeed. We boarded the boat for our trip back to KL with lumps in our throats and thoughts of returning - as soon as possible - in our heads.

Paradiso Village is just 2 1/2 hours' travel time (a 1-hour flight to Padang, 1 1/2 hours on the road south, and then a twenty-five minute boat ride) from Kuala Lumpur and Jakarta, slightly longer from Singapore. The very reasonable rights, considering the standard of accomodation and cuisine, start, at low season, from $80 (including round-trip transfer from Padang with a 3-night staty, snorkel equipment rental, twice-weekly island excursion, and all meals - but not alcoholic beverages). included)

Federica's Coconut Flan

One of our favorite Paradiso Village desserts. Many thanks to Federica for sharing it. Fresh coconut can be substituted for dessicated.

8-10 servings

250 grams dessicated coconut

8 tsp. sugar

2 tsp. water

1 tin (400 grams) Nestle Carnation sweetened condensed milk

1 tin (400 grams) Nestle evaporated milk (unsweetened)

4 large eggs

optional: extra coconut for dusting

1. Preheat overn to 180C/350F.

2. Toast the coconut in the oven (180 C/350 F)or in a heavy skillet over medium heat, stirring often so it doesn't burn.

3. In a buttered (or nonstick) 8-inch round cake pan combine sugar and water and melt on the stove over medium-low heat, stirring constantly. When the sugar-water turns light brown remove pan from heat, swirl the mixture to coat bottom of pan, and set aside to cool slightly.

4. Mix milks, eggs, and coconut in a large bowl and pour into the baking pan.

5. Place pan in a larger ovenproof dish or pan and place in the oven, then pour boiling water halfway up the flan pan. Bake for approximately one hour, or until the flan is only slightly jiggly in the middle. Remove, set aside for 10 minutes, and turn onto a plate. Serve cold or at room temperature.

6. Optional - toast about a cup of coconut and set aside to sprinkle over the flan before serving.

6. Serve cold.

Comments

[Tummythoz]

Thank you so much for this write-up. Wow, wow & wow. A gem indeed. Err $80 is quoted in USD?

[Shiewie]

Oh no! The secret's out!

Psst...the mini bar, fridge and Sumataran coffee are only available in the luxe suite over the water, not in the normal bungalows.

I need some Cubadak sambal now!

[Robyn]

SW - I don't know, but I *think* TIME's readership might be bigger than EatingAsia's, so you can blame the author of that article. Let's face it - there'll be no more last-minute reservations at Cubadak. You are so right about the sambal.

Tummythoz - yes that is American dollars. Check out the website - prices increase during high season (Asian and European holidays). But you'll get your money's worth. I'll put it this way: you'll never walk away from Paradiso Village's table hungry. ;-)

[Chubbypanda]

Wow. Now I'm thinking of going there for my honeymoon. It all sounds wonderful.

- CP

[Robyn]

Chubbypanda - if you do, the overwater bungalow is an absolute must.

[gunshead]

I would like to visit in this december
Hoepfully, the place is safe and no rain

[RSA]

Nice place especially when its sunset. You can really see it clearly plus it also has a very natural ambiance.

[Display Centres]

I would probably say that this is one of the best vacation spots that I have ever seen online. I hope that I can visit it someday.

[Reza & Cimi]

I have come to Paradiso Village and I am crazy to come back there very soon. Nanni, Federica, Marco, and Dominique ...we miss you guys...hopefully can visit you again soon..^_^

[business opportunity]

With a breathe taking view like this one who could resist coming here and having fun.

[Job]

I have always dreamed of visiting a place as serene as this one here. It is so calm and peaceful.

[AMA]

Wow awesome pictures. Looks like someone's having fun!!

[Training Courses]

"Paradiso Village" sounds pretty good. Now I already packed my bags to spent my holidays in Paradiso Village