Himalayan Flavors in Pudu

An American culinary truism: Where there's a sizeable immigrant population there's bound to be eateries offering good, authentic international specialties.

The same holds true in Malaysia, where 'migrant workers' (use of the word 'migrant' is telling; holding Temporary Work Permits that must be renewed yearly, these men and women, however long they may stay, can't expect to be granted the right to settle here permanently) comprise a good percentage of the workforce. Females involved in domestic work - in private homes, restaurants, hotels - are perhaps the most visible segment of Malaysia's migrant worker population, but the majority of foreign workers (about 45%) hold manufacturing and plantation jobs.

Legal employment (estimates of the number of illegal foreign workers in Malaysia range from 300,000 to over 2 million, depending on who's doing the estimating) outside private homes usually means Sundays free (by law, maids are not guaranteed days off, and many never see a day free of work), and migrant workers - men, especially - within striking distance of Kuala Lumpur take advantage of the opportunity to bus into the city. Congregating in the blocks around the Pudu bus station, they meet friends, purchase calling cards, phone home, do a spot of shopping, and eat the foods that will transport them, at least for an afternoon, back to their place of birth. To hang out and drink beer with fellow countrymen is to feel, even if only for a few hours, not foreign. For many a migrant worker, anywhere, this Sunday, today, and next Sunday, 7 days away, make the days in between easier to bear.

Nepalese, at about 220,000, comprise Malaysia's second-largest population of migrant workers (after Indonesians, at well over 1 million), and tucked into the bus station area's shophouses are a few venues at which to sample their country's cuisine. The Khukri (named for the traditional Nepalese dagger) is the most 'upscale' of the lot. Tables bear cloths, lighting is low, service gracious and welcoming. Most notably, food is the focus (rather than a second-ran to beer), with many dishes prepared to order and flavors of reflecting much care and thought in the kitchen.

Our status as the only non-Nepalese in the crowded restaurant is, we think on a recent Sunday, a testimony to the the authenticity of its dishes.

Nepalese cuisine is a delicious blend of Chinese, Tibetan, Bhutanese, and Indian flavors and techniques. Unless you've travelled extensively in Nepal (we haven't), I'll bet that most of the dishes on the Khukri's a la carte and set meal menu will be new to you. Dining here is an adventure well worth embarking on.

Refreshed by tall glasses of cold mahi - similar to Indian salted lassi but made with buttermilk instead of yogurt - we start with momo, thin-skinned dumplings stuffed with a choice of pork, chicken, or lamb served with two dipping sauces, one tomato-based and spicy, the other chunky with peanuts and a bit sweet. Pork stuffing is moist and fragrant with dry spices, and wrappers successfully straddle the fine line between satisfyingly chewy and undercooked. The cloudy broth accompanying the dumplings is meaty and perfumed with cardamom.

Set meals comprise a number of components (except for the main and starch, components are the same for most set meals), served thali-style in beautiful Nepalese brass bowls placed around a tray. We opt for one rice set with mutton curry and the intriguingly unfamiliar dhedo set with sukuti rabhat. The mutton curry, thin with a slick of chili oil on the surface, is a lamb lover's dream - tender, aggressively meaty chunks of mutton a fine match for the spicy, fragrant liquid.

The dhedo, we find, is a rounded steamed cake of millet (dhedo can also be made of maize, wheat, and buckwheat) topped with a melted ghee-filled dimple. Reminiscent of firm polenta, it won't be to everyone's taste. But we're polenta (and grain porridge in general) fans, and find the dhedo's grain-y flavor and slightly gummy texture to be a fine bed for the meal's accompanying curry and vegetables, which include a fresh and 'green'-tasting bhuteko saag (lightly sauteed and pureed spinach), tama ko achar (a piquant, not-sour 'pickle' of fermented bamboo mixed with chilies and al dente mung beans), and gundruk, green leaves (radish, in this case) that have been fermented like sauerkraut and then dried in the sun. The resulting pickle, rather than being leached of flavor, is pleasantly crunchy, sour, and vegetal.

We're especially delighted with the jhaneko dal (above right and opening photo), a comfortingly creamy concoction of black lentils and barley. Coriander seeds and cardamom say 'India' but fresh coriander leaves sprinkled on top and another, unidentifiable flavor hint at southern China. Whatever the ingredient mix, it inspires a request for seconds.

Sukuti ra bhat is a surprise. Sukuti is dried buffalo meat, a sort of jerky eaten on its own or to accompany drinks. For this dish the jerky is grilled over charcoal or wood, and then mixed into a stew-ish 'curry' thick with tomatoes, caramlized onions, and lots of chopped cilantro leaves and stems. The buffalo is absolutely delicious, beefy and chewy (not unpleasantly so), with a heady, charred smokiness that infuses the whole dish, which is also characterized by a light, creeping spiciness. Another candidate for seconds, had we had room in our bellies.

The Khukri offers two desserts - halwa (helva, halva) and kheer (rice pudding). Both are made from scratch to order (expect a 10 or 15-minute wait) and are served in huge portions, each enough for two or three to share. Made with suji (semolina), halwa is toasty and buttery. Rising from the kheer, a steam cloud smelling of ghee and the richest, fattiest, whole-fat milk; rice, grains nearly distinct, are soft but not mushy. Sin in a bowl.

There's much more to explore at the Khukri, including thukpa (Nepalese noodle soup - popular with other customers) and a tempting fish curry (organ lovers might wish to try the poleko bangru ko mutu - whole roasted pork heart served with achar).

The place is, simply put, a gem. And, beyond Malaysia's Nepalese community, an apparently undiscovered one at that.

The Khukri, 26 Jalan Tun Tan Siew Sin (Jalan Silang), First Floor, Pudu, Kuala Lumpur. Tel. 60-3-2072-0663. Lunch and dinner daily. Our much-too-huge lunch for two, including momo, two full set meals, two desserts, two glasses of mahi, and two cups of hot Nepalese tea, came to around 50 RM. More expensive than your average noodle joint but given the genteel atmoshphere and the high quality of the food, a bargain.

Comments

[bayi]

I have been to Nepal but the food doesn't look that familiar. I pass by this restaurant occasionally but always when I am driving and so I've not had the opportunity to try it out yet. Thanks for the info.

[Rasa Malaysia]

I have never seen or eaten Nepalese food, but your post was a great cultural guide to this new but exciting cuisine.

[Chubbypanda]

This is the first time that I've been exposed to the concept of Nepalese cuisine and, now that I have, I can't wait to try it. A drool inspiring juxtapositioning of the familiar and the strange.

- Chubbypanda

[jack]

I have been restaurent The khukri in Kuala Lumpur.Atmosphere environment an so good and new test of my life .You do not miss that test

[frank]

I have beeen there i like foods ,nice service atchepest food but tase is like indian.

[ram]

Dear all
Very good servise and inviroment.Fantastic do not miss guys