Last year about this time, at home in KL after a month or so in the States, I wrote a sappy, albeit heartfelt, ode to Malaysia and Malaysian food. This time around, suffice it to say - it's good to be back.
After passing Saturday in an appetite-killing, jet lag-induced fog, I climbed back on the horse and rode it to one of our favorite KL wet markets. Though we'd wiled away countless hours roaming the aisles of Pasar Chow Kit we had never managed, until Sunday, to time our peregrinations to the opening hours of this perpetually busy bihun sup stall.
No non-vegetarian within whiffing distance of Pak Ngah's bubbling cauldron can help but be seduced by the meaty steam rising from the long-simmering beef parts within.
The broth's depth of color and mouthwatering fragrance promise much.
Each bowl delivers.
An order of 'special' means more everything - more stomach, lung, meat, and whatever the heck else Pak Ngah has chucked into the mix. The solids are fine, but it's really the rich, intense broth that's to die for. That, and the brick-red chile sauce in the squeeze ketchup bottles on every table. It's nothing more than dried chilies, soaked and ground to a paste - but also, perhaps, roasted to impart a haunting, sweet-smoky, almost Mexican ancho-ish essence.
Bihun sup. Not found in many an American market.
Welcome home, says Dave. Thanks, answers my belly.
Pak Ngah bihun sup stall, Chow Kit Market, 11ish to late afternoon.
hey. if u havent tasted good malay kuih, do drop by at the pasar besar taman tun dr ismail next to the old IBM building. its on the 2nd floor and the name of the shop is My Little Cake shop.its been around for 15 years i think
do give it a try!
Posted by: Raihan | 2007.05.09 at 17:05
How does this dish compare to the Vietnamese bun bo hue?
Posted by: Nate | 2007.05.10 at 02:32
My GOD. I can taste and smell it!! The close-up snap of the bubbling broth is killer!!
Posted by: Ling | 2007.05.10 at 07:07
Raihan - we're always looking for recommendatinons. Thanks!
Nate - well, the noodles are different, these are skinny yellow bihun (also available with thicker yellow mee). There's no bone-in meat chunks(at least, there wasn't in our bowls) like in bun bo Hue. The broth is more straightforward, I think (less herb seasonings), and chile is optional (I remember bun bo Hue as having a little kick from the get-go). And, of course, there's no accompanying pile of leaves and herbs to tear up and add to the soup, just the fried shallots and chopped coriander already sprinkled on top. Similar to b.b. Hue in it's satisfying beefiness, but that's about it. I'll call them variations on a meaty noodle soup theme.
Posted by: Robyn | 2007.05.10 at 11:13
Ling - you must be a meat lover. Others might find that pic a little, well, gross.
Posted by: Robyn | 2007.05.10 at 11:14
I don't find that gross at all. It's looks delicious and evokes memories.
Posted by: E | 2007.05.10 at 16:51
E - We agree, obviously. But not everyone finds 'parts' appetizing. To tell the truth I didn't for a long time ... living in Malaysia converted me!
Posted by: Robyn | 2007.05.10 at 18:11
yummm... sounds like "batchoy", an Ilonggo specialty...
Posted by: julsitos | 2007.05.10 at 22:12
Hai there...tq for the support...plz come an enjoy our bihun sup...we are open at 9am-7pm except friday...
Posted by: pak ngah bihun sup | 2011.04.06 at 16:18