Tarry, Tarry Night

Stones for dinner? Not quite.

These rock-like objects are the hard-shelled seeds of the kepayang tree (Pangium edule), which grows wild in Indonesia and Malaysia. Known as kluwak in Indonesian and buah keluak in Malaysian, they are an essential ingredient in rawon, an east Javanese beef or chicken stew, and in ayam/babi buah keluak, a Malaysian Nonya chicken or pork specialty.

I'd been eyeing the piles of kluwak at Indonesian vendors' stalls in Kuala Lumpur's Chow Kit market for some time. It was the wonderfully rich rawon served by a Javanese vendor at nearby Restoran TAR that set me on the path to purchase.

Studded with tiny, barely sprouted soy beans, this beefy bowl begged to be eaten on a cold night in front of a roaring fire. No chance of that in KL, though I might set the aircon to high before I sit down to my own version.

The pale 'meat' of raw kluwak are poisonous. On Java, where most commercially-sold kluwak originate, they are soaked and boiled to neutralize their hydrocyanic acid. The pitch-black meat of the processed seeds is soft and oily, like half-cooled tar (some might say opium), and smells woodsy, like a forest floor after a long rain. It tastes a bit like a strong mushroom, with the barest repellant-yet-alluring hint of truffle.

Before being blended into rawon the kluwak is ground to a paste. The depth of flavor it lends to this humble dish is difficult to describe, but I've rarely been as taken by a bowl of beef soup. A better cook than I would no doubt figure a way to incorporate this intriguingly fungi-esque ingredient into a western dish or two.

Kluwak are easily available (already shelled) in the US - on Amazon, no less. Fans of (very) slow-cooked, big flavors might want to try this recipe, posted by an Indonesian food blogger, for rawon made with oxtail, or this one, for Nonya ayam buah keluak (chicken cooked with kluwak).

Comments

[Cupcake]

Hmm ... I guess you've not had my parents' assam fish curry spiced up with buah kluwak? I recently tried pork rib assam curry with buah kluwak. Equally good.

:-)
Cupcake

[Robyn]

Cupcake - you did gift us some assam fish, about a year ago - very red with an admirable kick. Was that spiked with kluwak?

[Nate]

I've had the Nonya ayam keluak version at Restoran Bibi Chik in SS2. I thought by itself it was quite bitter but overall the dish was okay.

http://www.ballofdirt.com/entries/10396/120073.html

[Cupcake]

Nope! That was the plain vanilla version. We don't usually do the kluwak thing. I'll bring round some curry paste the next time we make it.

Cupcake

[E]

I had that dish too in that nyonya retaurant at ss2. It does have a funny taste but I thought it was great. Cupcake, care to share that assam fish with keluak recipe? :)

[Ari (Baking and Books)]

It's amazing the things you can find on Amazon these days huh? This soup looks amazing, I love all the colors and textures. All I need is a steaming bowl of it, a spoon and an empty stomach!

[Chubbypanda]

I've read about kluwak, although the author of the piece didn't seem as enthused about the flavors it imparts as Robyn is. My curiosity is piqued.

[Cindy]

Hi Robyn, have been following your blog and it fascinates me no end. Most of the eateries you frequent i've not even heard of. So much for being a proud malaysian.

I get very excited everytime someone shares my liking for the kluak. i grew up with the flavours of kluak in gerang asam lovingly prepared by my grandmother. http://www.flickr.com/photos/cindygan/241782848/

I've heard really good reviews from other nyonya friends on nancy's kitchen in melaka, serving the best buah kluak gerang asam of any nyonya restaurant.

[Pepy]

Robyn,
I have a recipe of Sop Konro that is used kluwak. http://indonesia-eats.blogspot.com/2007/09/so-konro-makasar-style-beef-ribs-stew.html

[jarrod]

can any1 pls pls plssssss tell me wher can i get to purchase this buah keluak ??
i have been dying for it trying to search the whole kl cant get... damnnnn... if any1 knows wher can i get or can any1 dhl it to me in kl i'll b the happiest guy in the world.. im willing to pay wat ever expences just to purchase it and send it to kl plssssss any1??
pls email me at [email protected] thx :p

[Sasha @ Global Table Adventure]

Sign me up - anything that is like a "strong mushroom" is bound to be an instant favorite :)