Perfect Palm Sugar Vehicle No. 3: Kuih Ketayap

We're going to go out on a limb (with non-Malaysian, southeast Asian readers) and assert that when it comes to sweets, Malaysia rules in the region. Kuih (a generic word for sweet 'cakes', though there are savory kuih as well) are thick on the streets here; it's difficult to drive (does anyone walk, in Kuala Lumpur?) more than a couple of blocks without running into a sugary something or other.

That said, all kuih are not created equal (nor are kuih vendors). There are two kuih that we simply cannot pass by without stopping to make a purchase: putu piring and kuih ketayap (also known as kuih tayap and kuih dadar).

We think we've found an exceptional version of the latter - a sort of pancake tinted green with pandan leaf and rolled around a filling of grated coconut and palm sugar - in Brickfields. The Malay sweet is sold, ironically, from an Indian vegetarian stall. Look past the mounds of curry puffs and various other deep-fried whatchamajiggers to the green, individually wrapped logs.

What places these ketayap a notch or two above the average version is their heavy-duty toastiness.

Usually the palm sugar and grated coconut that stuff a ketayap are fried together, with a knotted pandan leaf, until the sugar starts to melt and the ingredients meld into one. This vendor, by contrast, toasts the coconut on its own, bringing it to a golden brown before adding palm sugar. The only thing more wonderful than grated coconut is toasted grated coconut. These ketayap evince a heady toasted coconut fragrance (you can almost smell the coconut before you taste it) that plays up the natural smokiness of the gula Melaka.

For hardcore fans of these two ingredients (that would be us), it doesn't get much better.

Khui ketayap stall, southern end of Jalan Tun Sambanthan on a corner across from Vidaya Curry House, Brickfields. Daily from about 3pm.

Comments

[LovelyMalaysiaFood]

Kuih Ketayap is my favorite too. Have you try ondeh-ondeh? That also is a perfect palm sugar vehicle.

[Rasa Malaysia]

I love Kuih Tayap, haven't had this in the longest time and now I feel like making them because of your pictures!

[Robyn]

LMF - I thought you didn't like sweets?! A good ondeh-ondeh is great, the problem is they're often too gummy or the wrapper-gula Melaka filling ratio is off. I do think the guy who sells off the back of his motorcycle in Bangsar makes a really nice one though. You can really taste the pandan in the dumpling 'wrapper'. And just enough gula with a good spurt factor. ;-)

[raine]

hi, i've been reading your blog for about a month now and it helps stave off my cravings- both sweet and savoury. i'm a born foodie who's recently been diagnosed with diabetes(i know, kiss of death) so not only do i have to count my calories now but i also have to make them count. contrary to what one would expect, reading food blogs helps a lot. not just any food blog though, it has to be well-written and interesting. it has to make me salivate. this blog of yours hits the spot.:-)

[LovelyMalaysiaFood]

I like some sweets like delicious ondeh-ondeh. You can make your own too - it is not difficult.

[Nate]

I remember having some kueh dadar at a little shop inside KLCC. Even though it was "mall food", I recall that this kueh was terrific. You've given us a reason to try and make it ourselves!

[Robyn]

raine - thanks. Glad we could be of 'service' in some way. Best of luck in dealing with the dietary challenges your diagnosis presents...

LMF - I've heard ondeh ondeh are not difficult. But then I am a bit lazy when it comes to sweets. ;-)

Nate - I think it's easier to find a good kuih dadar than many other kuih. The filling is key, of course, but the wrapper is important too. Too gummy or too dry is a real turn-off. Of course, best of all is fresh off the griddle.

[quentina]

Robyn, that first picture makes me weep. I can almost taste them....it's been over 10 years!

[Robyn]

Quentina - 10 yrs without ketayap! I feel your pain....

[lala]

calories in one kuih ketayap..??

[Robyn]

lala - absolutely no idea, but the wrapper is just rice flour (some add tapioca or regular flour), egg, and water. The filling is grated coconut and palm sugar. Couldn't be as much as some Malaysian kuih that are made with coconut milk.