I had forgotten how loud Saigon is.
The deep-throated rumble of the motorcycles that rule its streets makes sidewalk conversation all but impossible. At morning and evening rush hours that purposeful hum would literally shake the floors of our District 1 house (now, curiously, a trendy creperie).
It's the kind of racket that rattles the bones, the sound of a city on the move from work to home to play and of a populace rushing from present to future. It's exciting, exhilerating, electrifying.
Until, all at once, it's not.
Narrow alleys offer respite for those in need of one bloody minute's peace.
Pick a passageway barely wide enough to accomodate two motorbikes. Enter and walk, then turn a corner and go a bit further. Suddenly homogenous din is replaced by distinguishable sounds of daily life: the swish of a bicycle, the wail of a baby, the thwack of cleaver on chopping block, the clatter of cutlery against plate, the sales cry of an ambulatory vendor.
In spite of Saigon's headlong rush to 'modernization' men and women selling snacks from carts on wheels and baskets suspended from shoulder poles are still very much a part of the urban landscape.
This woman peddles creme caramel and thach (cool jellies made with agar-agar) from a glass and steel cart. She's been in business twelve years and typically puts in twelve-hour days on the hoof.
She keeps her sweets cool the old-fashioned way, with a single block of ice. As the day wears on the ice gradually melts onto the bowls of jelly underneath. Not a problem - their smooth, uncracked surfaces are impermeable to water.
Her coffee jelly strikes a pitch-perfect note on this muggy afternoon. Silky and cool, it soothes as it slides down our exhaust fume-coated throats. Coffee and coconut flavors are true and clean, unmarred by excessive sweetness. Refreshing, in a word.
Revitalized, we take a deep breath and head back into the cacophony.
Hey...just stumbled on your website a week ago. I love how you juxtapose food close-ups with the pics of the surroundings. It's great to see delicious-looking food come out of such humble environs. :)
Posted by: AppetiteforChina | 2007.11.15 at 15:01
I was really interested in those creme caramels (banh flan(?)). Vietnamese cuisine has done such a seamless job of submerging the French colonial influence.
Posted by: Phil | 2007.11.15 at 17:27
Appetite - thanks. We're convinced that some of the world's best food is made by its most uncelebrated cooks (ie. hawkers, vendors, and nothing-much shop owners).
Phil - isn't it the truth! Banh mi being just one of a bunch of examples.
Posted by: Robyn | 2007.11.15 at 18:17
What a beautiful photo- I love the colors and the textures of the alley (I just wrote about Ho Chi Minh colors thinking of that exact setting), and that woman has so much charm and warmth in her face. And that coffee jelly looks rather intriguing. -X
Posted by: Xander | 2007.11.15 at 22:40
Have been following your blog for many months now, and just wanted to say thank you - yet again! - for the hugely pleasurable experience it is. The photos are to die for, your food descriptions are sublime - detailed, careful, discerning - and your whole blog page as perfect a balance of flavours as the best dishes could be. Just such a joy to come see this blog page every time. Thank you.
Posted by: Lisa | 2007.11.15 at 22:53
What's the white part of the coffee jelly? Condensed milk or coconut? Also, I love your site (I think roboppy listed your site)...this really encourages me to want to go to Vietnam, Thailand & Singapore. Also, I've been to PI a few times in the past, as I have family there. But since I always went with my parents, I was never allowed to eat at the food stalls. Hopefully, that may change the next time I go...
Posted by: JGo | 2007.11.15 at 23:54
The first picture is so beautiful. I like the flavor of the agar-agar desserts, but I find them to be too stiff. I prefer them to be more like a custard.
Posted by: Nate | 2007.11.16 at 04:40
Xander - thank you. She was very shy to begin with but then got into the whole photo thing. Doesn't always happen, but when it does the results are usu. pretty good...
JGo - it's coconut. I'm glad we've inspired you to revisit SE Asia but - are you kidding? Singapore? If this is the kind of eating you want to do skip Singapore and come to Malaysia (as Singaporeans do on the weekends). Even the vaunted Singapore food blogger Chubby Hubby has, in print, admitted that Singapore's hawker food pales in comparison to Malaysia's. Head to Penang and you'll think you've died and gone to heaven. (No, I'm not on Malaysian Ministry of Tourism's payroll. Though I should be.) ;-0
Nate - if it's dessert I want then yeah, custard. But if it's just a refreshing, not-too-sweet pick-me-up then I'll go with one of these (I find a lot of Malaysian agar-agar snacks to be almost saccharine sweet.)
Posted by: Robyn | 2007.11.16 at 18:20
Robyn and Dave,
I am beginning to sound like a broken record, but thank you for another fantastic post. As always, the writing and photography are truly gorgeous. I really appreciate your eye for detail, and your compassion, which shines through so many of your posts.
Posted by: ELE | 2007.11.17 at 05:00
ELE - flattery will get you everywhere! Seriously, thanks for your comments and for your regular readership.
Posted by: Robyn | 2007.11.17 at 10:01
Hello,
I've just read that post, and my mouth is watering (I love jellies, and those look especially yummy), but unfortunately, you give no indication where to find that lady, is it an alley right next to the Creperie (I've never noticed one there)??
I'd LOVE to try and find it...
Thank you!
Karin
Posted by: Karin | 2008.04.22 at 18:10
Karin - she's constantly moving (we found her in District 10) so I can't give an address. No, nowhere near the Creperie (which, by the way, was our house when we lived in Saigon).
The best I can do is tell you to keep an eye out for moving carts filled with ice. She's not the only jelly peddler in Saigon, I'm sure of it.
Posted by: Robyn | 2008.05.05 at 10:25