Nasi Padang? Feh. So been-there-done-that. The problem with many of the nasi Padang places in and around Kuala Lumpur - the chain imports from Indonesia, especially - is that they seem to tone down the heat to suit milder Malaysian palates. So, when it's a burn we're hankering for nasi Kapau's a much better bet.
Warung Nasi Kapau, a small, squeaky-clean place on Jalan Raja Alang just up the street from Chow Kit Market, has been around for about twenty years. The owner and mistress of the kitchen migrated from Kapau (a small village about 10 kilometers from the western Sumatran hill town of Bukit Tingi) in the eighties; her sons work the front of the restaurant.
Places specializing in nasi Kapau display their tempting wares as those offering nasi Padang do, in pots and platters lined up in glass display cases.
Customers grab a serving of rice and then work the line, adding this and that to their plate. Or, they grapple with what's on offer as we prefer to, via a series of small plates. (Caution: the small plate approach is often the path to obscene overindulgence.)
A few things distinguish Kapau specialties from those of Padang: a preponderance of green chilies (as the three dishes in the middle, above, illustrate), an occasional hint of tartness, lots of vegetable dishes, and HEAT. When it comes to chilies Kapau cooks don't pull any punches (ka-pow!).
Warung Nasi Kapau serves four types of sambal (chili sauce), including two types of sambal hijau (literally, 'green' sambal), made with the aforementioned chilies. These chilies, especially when combined with a bit of lime juice or lime rind, lend a very un-nasi Padang-like lightness to many dishes.
Particularly nice are the small fish, butterflied and deep-fried so crisp they can be eaten bones and all, topped with chilies and caramelized onions (second photo). Small eggplant roasted whole and swaddled in a tart chili blanket boast a superb creamy texture that's complemented by the slippery, silky sauteed peppers.
The restaurant's beef rendang is deep, smoky, and very tender, and its square tempeh 'cutlets' stewed in a mild turmeric-heavy gulai (coconut milk-based curry sauce) are wonderfully soybean-nutty.
Not every item at Warung Nasi Kapau is deadly spicy, but those that are, really are. Everthing we tried was hands-down delicious, but we left many a nasi Kapau stone unturned here. This place is the next best thing to the nasi Kapau stalls at Bukit Tingi's market. We'll be back.
Warung Nasi Kapau, Jalan Raja Alang, noon-12pm daily.
I can feel the heat but looking at the green sambal already.
Posted by: Simon Seow | 2008.04.22 at 17:55
Nice photos. The crunchy fried fish and brinjals looks delicious. I have not tried nasi padang. I like the Malay nasi campur brinjals which is fried and served with red chili sambal. I will be leaving from Florida to KL this Saturday. Can't wait to get there. It has been 4 years. Thanks for your wonderful post.
Posted by: Meng | 2008.04.23 at 11:08
Whenever you're around Gombak/Bt Caves, do visit our restaurant in Taman Sri Gombak. We serve Nasi Padang at a very reasonable price.
A La Carte for Thai & Western cuisine starts at 5pm.
Posted by: Tok Li | 2008.04.24 at 14:04
The sambal hijau looks delicious and so hot that eating the plate of rice could give one a burning sensation in the mouth for half an hour at least! :) Kapau ("ka-pow!") is the appropriate word!
Seriously, it's still like nasi padang, right? But the green sambal is something I would like to try.
Posted by: bayi | 2008.04.27 at 22:45
Simon - I love the green sambal best.
Meng - guess you're in KL by now. Hope you're eating well. :-)
Tok Li - thanks for the info.
bayi - many of the dishes are similar to nasi Padang. The green chili dishes are a little different and there are a couple Kapau specialties: egg sausage, duck cooked with green chilies, for instance. These folks are friendly so I'd just go in and ask 'what's specially Kapau here?'
Posted by: Robyn | 2008.05.05 at 10:18