Chicken Joy in Penang

The first time we visited Penang we were lucky enough to hook up with a taxi driver who's crazy for food (that's kind of a silly thing to write, actually; we've yet to meet a Penang-ite who wasn't crazy for food). Over the course of one long, delicious morning he introduced us to an exquisite version of assam laksa, a wonderfully porky specialty that's often overlooked by visitors, and a very good cendol that might have assumed 'best' status in our book if we hadn't already eaten better in Malacca.

Mr. Goh also introduced us to Kafe Kheng Pin, an old-timey coffeeshop where a hawker sells exquisite lor bak and prawn fritters (more on those tasties later). As we sat there eating, licking our fingers in between bites, he pointed to another stall where a Hainan chicken vendor was setting up for business.

'And that,' he said, 'is the best chicken rice around.'

We groaned. We just didn't have any more room! But we never forgot those words of Mr. Goh's, uttered almost two years ago.

And so, when we found ourselves in Penang at the beginning of this year we set aside time for two visits to Kheng Pin, one for lor bak and prawn fritters and deep-fried squid, the latter of which we had somehow missed the first time around (and oh my, what an amazing deep-fried squid it is), and one for Hainan chicken rice.

 

On this day we found the vendor working with his wife and their son. It was lunchtime, and almost every table was graced with an order or three of chicken rice. We waited a full fifteen minutes for our lunch, watching as she cleavered chickens one after the other with amazing speed, while he dressed the plates with cucumbers and a drizzle of this and that; meanwhile the couple's son son flew around the coffeeshop delivering plates of goodness to appreciative and hungry customers. 

Well, we don't know about 'best', but Mr. Goh's praise for this version of what is in reality a very simple dish was on the money. Our order included breast meat, usually the least tasty part of the chicken. But this bird really had flavor. Before slicing a breast into strips to top the rice Mrs. Chicken Rice whacks it once with the side of her cleaver, resulting in wonderfully tender pieces of meat. The chicken is cooked perfectly, still light pink at the bone, soft but with a bit of chew, and absolutely silky. The meat is almost eclipsed by the rice, individual grains shiny with chicken fat and infused with the bird's flavor.

This stall, like most of the best in Penang, has been around for a while; Mrs Chicken Rice's mother opened set up shop at Kheng Pin over forty years ago. Happily, the couple's son looks set to carry on the business. It's a must-visit if you find yourself in Penang.

Hands down the best Hainan bird we've eaten in Penang. But in all of Malaysia? Well, that may be up for debate in a couple days. This morning we're off to Ipoh, which many Malaysians would argue is the spot for chicken prepared in the Hainan way.

Hainan chicken rice at Kheng Pin, 80-82 Jalan Penang, Georgetown Penang. 630a-3pm (Hainan chicken rice from about 10-ish). Closed Monday.

Comments

[Rasa Malaysia]

Sometimes, what is best in Penang is subjective because there are so many stalls that do it so well. Haven't tried this, but my old favorite was in Pulau Tikus, a coffee shop selling just Chicken rice. Wonder if they are still around.

If you are going to Penang soon, I found a new Hokkien Mee hawker that has become my recent favorite. It's across from Padang Brown at the corner kopitiam. 30 minutes for one bowl. But slurp!

[Cyn]

No doubt Penang is the place to be when it comes to food. I can’t believe I’m seeing these wonderful photos…ok gotta go makan. I’m so hungry now…

I compiled Penang Tourism Guide recently. Please visit and have some comments .. Hopefully I will visit Penang soon :)

cheers Ö

[Preeta]

I'm so glad you're going to Ipoh! Penang food is admittedly amazing, but the food of Ipoh, my hometown, has been sadly overlooked in the international press for too long. I know you guys are practically locals for all intents and purposes, but you do have an international voice, so I hope you fall as deeply in love with Ipoh as I remain, and I hope the rest of the world sits up and listens!

[Criz Lai]

Wow~! You are lucky to find a driver who loves food. Kheng Pin is really a great place for good food. The other would be Eng Loh down at Church Street. They have more varieties over there. Unfortunately, no lor bak but you can try the Wan Than Mee there. The stall has more than 10 different options such as curry chicken, wine chicken, shui kow, etc.

[Susan]

Arrgh. I so need to go back.. not to mention that it was lots of fun *trying* to follow your footsteps!

[Robyn]

Rasa, I think that's the case with every sort of food no matter where you are. We may be in Penang sooner rather than later so I'll keep that Hokkien mee recommendation in mind...

Hi Cyn - I do think it's No 1 in Malaysia for hawker food.

Hi Preeta, a couple Ipoh posts to come, but unfortunately we didn't have time to partake of as much of the town as we wanted, not this trip anyway. We did enjoy the ayam merah ganja at the famous nasi kandar stall though!

Hi Criz - love wine chicken so may check out Eng Loh next trip. Thanks for the tip.

[Preeta]

Ah, the famous nasi ganja, yes, my dad was a devoted fan (and probably still is, but no longer lives in Ipoh, alas), much to the chagrin of my mother, who I think actually believed there was opium in the curries :-) . I am looking forward to your post already!

-- Preeta

[Xander]

I really should have eaten more Hainanese Chicken Rice while I was in Asia. It was always such a simple, satisfying dish-- somehow cleansing and filling at the same time. -X

[Sumo]

Hi Robyn,

Love your blog, do you by the off chance have Mr. Goh's contact number?

[Christelle]

Oh I love this dish so much!!!!

[Steven Goh]

Ya, this stall serve one of the great chicken rice. However, the comments of Penangite for this stall is very contradiction cause some said that this meat of the chicken is too jelly and not well cooked at all :(

[Mandy]

The Hainan Chicken Rice in Kheng Pin coffee shop has new branch at Lorong Selamat - Mid Town Cafe which manage by the couple's son. The business hour is 10.30 am to 3pm and close once in two weeks (Thursday).