Thirds, Please

We had a kueh keria moment - or maybe it was a Shan donut moment - a few days ago, at the morning market in OUG (a mostly Chinese enclave about 20 minutes from downtown Kuala Lumpur). We've been spending a bit of time there lately, on the good eats trail.

Bag-toting aunties clustered around a Chinese fry stall. There were the usual items  - sweet potato balls, curry puffs, red bean paste-filled glutinous rice balls. And little three-bite donuts.

I've never been a donut fan. The appeal of my country's contributions to the deep-fried sweet treat genre - Krispy Kreme and Dunkin' Donuts - completely eludes me. Nor do I generally like eating sugary items before noon. A cup or two of good, strong coffee is all the morning jag I need.

But this vendor forms her donuts lovingly, patting the dough as gently as if she were powdering her dear grandbaby's naked tush. Fresh out of the fryer, they beckoned. We ordered two.

How do you describe the ultimate donut?

Let me try. When it's still hot its skin is crackly-crunchy, with nary a hint of grease. Inside it's yielding, melting even, almost to the point of mimicking a firm custard. As the donut cools it retains some crispiness, while the interior becomes a fluffy pillow that meets the teeth with a bit of resistance. It smells and tastes of baked grain first, and then of some - but not much - sugar. The dough itself doesn't really need sweet, because that's what the extra-fine grains of white sugar decorating the donut's golden skin are for.

We ordered two more and ate them as we walked. Heading back to our car we diverted, as if pulled by some invisible, inexplicable force, for thirds.

And, this morning at first light, we drove back to OUG for more.

Wang Ping An (in red, handwritten Chinese characters) fry stall, OUG morning market (outside). At 50 sen each, you're crazy if you don't buy a dozen.

Comments

[a]

where's the coffee?

[Andrea Nguyen]

Robyn, How did donuts -- this particular rendition -- come to Malaysia? They sound heavenly, and ironically, I've been jonesing for homemade ones.

[Robyn]

Hey a - well, actually, there's a coffeeshop a short walk away that serves up a fantastic cuppa. But the donuts didn't make it that far.

Andrea, that's what I've been wondering.But it's not that big a leap from youtiao (dough sticks) to forming them into a round and dipping them in sugar, right? Donuts of the Dunkin' variety became super big here a few years ago. Donut shops everywhere.

But none as good as this.

[lotsofcravings]

ahaha that must b 1 good donut to deserve thirds!

[Kelantan Gal]

These donuts are my absolute favourite!

[Rai]

My mother made Kuih Keria once or twice (or thrice?) when I was small and I loved it!

Made from mashed sweet potato mix with a little wheat flour, form into shape and deep fry.

Only the coating was sugar flakes instead of powdered sugar. You get the flakes by heating sugar plus a little water in the wok until it melts and then quickly add the donuts to mix all over. Yummy!

[Robyn]

lotsof - they're excellent!

Kelantan Gal - for me it's a tossup betw these and kuih keria, but these are awfully nice.

Rai - sounds quite alot like our favorite kuih keria, just outside of Malacca:

http://eatingasia.typepad.com/eatingasia/2008/07/heading-out-of.html

[Andrea Nguyen]

Robyn, I was wondering if these employed sweet potato in the dough but the potato tends to make dough more chewy than crisp. Maybe there's some potato flour in there instead of cooked sweet potato. It's the shape that so interesting to me.

Chinese you tiao uses a couple of leavening agents for the explosive effect but these have an uncanny resemblance to the donuts down the street from our house. In the States, donut shops are often owned by Cambodians.

[Nigel]

hi Robyn..

surprising to see someone likes the donut so much! I used to frequent OUG market to do groceries every weekend with my mum. I really miss the food which is so readily available for you over there..!

[Rachel]

Extrapolating from your 'kuih keria'...if you are ever in Colorado, a 2nd reason for driving up to the top of Pikes Peak (the 1st, needless to say, would be the view!) are the donuts! Tiny, bite-size donuts that come 6 to a bag - crispy on the outside, dense within, not too sweet and not too oily. You have to try them if you ever come by. I'm going back to KL in 3 days time so I'll let you know how they compare to the Malaysian equivalent - but I still think the Pikes Peak ones are worth mentioning nonetheless!

[Grace]

Ommm your description of the perfect donut was even more droolworthy than the photo..... and that's saying something lol!

[J2Kfm]

i'm a donut fan since small.
simple, sugary and soft donuts are best, though the fancy ones at Jco and Big Apple also got my votes. sometimes. :)

cant wait for Krispy Kreme.

[In Lechon Phlippine]

That is one of my favorite snack.Filipinos are patronage of this kind of food.

-Ava

[Pete]

Robyn, we made that drive up to OUG this morning, found the market ... AND the donut lady. You're right - the donuts were good. BTW, you should also try the nasi lemak stall a few yeards away - an elderly Malay couple surrounded by a bunch of regulars. I asked a Chinese customer & he said that couple had been selling nasi lemak in OUG since 1976, as he remembered. Apparently, theirs are as good, if not better, than the famous Nasi Lemak Antarabangsa in Kampong Baru(?)

[Robyn]

Hi Pete - Wow, we know that couple from our first visit to OUG market almost 4 years ago ... but on our last series of forays couldn't find them. I wonder if they sell on Sat, Sun, and public holidays only? At any rate, thanks for the tip. I remember their rendang very fondly indeed.
Glad you enjoyed the donuts. Craving one right now.... and now I suppose it's on to Yut Kee and pork roast for you?

[Pete]

Hi Robyn - we drove all the way to Sek Yuen for lunch today, BUT found out that it was closed on May Day!!! Anyway, we went to May King, which has been serving the best known "lam mee" in KL since 1969 - it's at 38 Jalan Yew, off Jalan Pudu. Off to Malacca tomorrow but will be back in KL on Sunday - now wondering if we'd do Sek Yuen or Yut Kee for Sunday lunch :-(

[Jojo]

Hi Robyn,
I grew up living in OUG - in fact my parents and brother are still living there now. These donuts are so good and fresh!!! We used to get our donuts from that 'Auntie' almost every weekend for breakfast!! Now that I live abroad, I get them every time I return to KL. My Canadian husband used to RAVE about donuts from the likes of Krispy Kremes, Dunkin Donuts etc., and I'd always say the same thing 'wait till you taste these REAL donuts'. Well, he had them for the first time last year when we were back in KL ... I haven't heard a peep about any other donuts since!

[Pete]

Robyn, we went to Sek Yuen for lunch on Sunday (so missed Yut Kee & its rolled pork roast this time). Loved the 8-Treasure stuffed pig's trotters at Sek Yuen. We also had my fave Sek Yuen dish: ka heong choy (mixed vegies flavored with fermented beancurd).

Later, went to Berjaya Times Square to try Malaysia's first Krispy Kreme outlet. You're right - although I used to LOVE Krispy Kreme (had them in US, UK, Australia, even Seoul), they don't hold a candle to the OUG one!

[Robyn]

Jojo - good to hear that you set your husband straight. For the life of me I just can't understand this whole Krispy Kreme mania.

Hey Pete - you are my kinda guy! Congrats on making it to Sek Yuen. We love that mixed veggies too! And the babao pig's trotter --- well, it's pork and it's made by the folks at Sek Yuen, so how can you go wrong?
Also, thanks for confirming my utter bafflement regarding the hoo-ha that Krispy Kreme's opening has set off here in KL. Hello people! You've had a doughnut way better than Krispy Kreme sitting right under your noses for years!