A Reason to Smile

Taiwan has few reasons to smile this week as it mops up from Typhoon Morakot. One bright note - hundreds of villagers thought to have perished under a mudslide were apparently able to make it to high ground before disaster struck. Our thoughts are with the folks on Taiwan as they continue to dig out.

Meanwhile, we continue to be amazed by our Taiwan trip - the wonderful foods and friendliness that we found on that island nation -- and to sing its praises to whomever will listen. Just the thought of returning makes us smile. The thought of returning to this joint in particular makes us smile biggest.

Laopai Niurou La Mian Da Wang. The shop's name translates to something like 'Old Brand Pulled- Noodles-With-Beef King'. And that pretty much sums it up. They serve Taiwan's beloved niurou mian, or beef noodles, and they pull their pasta by hand every day. They've been around a long time (thirty years, to be precise). And when it comes to the art of cooking beef noodles, they're masters.

The King is sited near Taipei's train station, in a dark alley fragrant with the aromas wafting from the twenty or so food shops that line both its sides. It's a street food goldmine well known to locals, but we stumbled upon it by chance. And as soon as we saw the chief noodle cooker, a jolly on-his-way-to-bald man who hails from Tainan (a mid-west coast town that some consider Taiwan's 'small eats' capital), hoist high those thick ropey strands, we knew we'd found lunch.

Beef noodle preferences, like those for any iconic dish the world over, are personal. Some like their beef noodle soup spicy while others vote for a heavy star anise and cinammon presence. Shaved noodles (dao shao mian) float some boats, others prefer their pasta pulled. We ate our way through quite a few bowls of niuroumian over the course of three weeks, and it's the King's that kept drawing up back.

The hefty noodles are chewy, and the broth tastes mostly of long-cooked meat with enough star anise and cinnamon to flavor, but not overwhelm. There's the tiniest bit of chili bite to this noodle soup, betraying the alleged Sichuan origin of niurou mian. The King cooks its beef until the meat is gelatinously tender, reminiscent of mom's pot roast after several hours in the oven.

They're best eaten with a splodge of every available condiment: soupy chopped ginger and garlic, Sichuan-style la jiao (chili flakes in oil), and chopped preserved mustard greens. We enjoyed classic unadorned niurou mian, and Sichuan niurou mala mian, with plenty of chili and Sichuan peppercorn. If I had it to do over again I'd veer from my usual chili-friendliness to choose the former; in my opinion the Sichuan peppercorn interferes with the intense purity of the beef-flavored broth.

 

The King also does a mighty fine platter of shuijiao (boiled pork dumplings)

and a mean hot and sour soup. The latter is nothing like the gluey overadorned (no shredded cloud ear fungus or lily buds here) versions often served in the States, but close to one I enjoyed in Chengdu back in the day: a thin meat soup packed with strips of firm tofu and soured not only with sharp white vinegar but also tart pickled cabbage, carrots, and bean sprouts. The 'hot' element you add yourself, from the bowl of lajiao on your table.

LaoPai Niurou La Mian Da Wang, Chongqing Nan Lu Yi Duan 46 Gang (No. 46 'Alley' off of Chongqing South Road, Section 1), Taipei.

Comments

[Fioricet Online]

Great way to surpass the tragic event. A great reason to smile because they can still experience the greatness of the food delicacies.

[bayi]

When I was in Taipei last year, I sampled several beef noodle offerings at various stalls but did not even come near to what you described here. I guess I am not good at smelling out the better places to eat. :( Beef noodles is a dish I love and reading your account and looking at the photo of the steaming bowl of delicious noodles already made my mouth salivate like crazy!

[kirbie]

The pictures and description are mouthwatering, as usual. I love beef noodle soup with pulled noodles. I had already been craving Taiwan's beef noodle soup for about a week now, and seeing your post makes me want transport over to Taipei. Stat.

[Chin @www.poloku.us]

Beef noodle soups are adored by a lot of Taiwanese people, it's becoming a very iconic Taiwanese 'xiaochi' or small eat, even though many take up the name "Sichuan" beef noodle soup for its spiciness and heavy use of Sichuan peppercorn. There even used to be annual beef noodle festival organized by Taipei city government where people voted for the best beef noodle place in Tapei (i don't know if they still do it).

Niuroumiao definitely has taken up a position of a whole new category of 'must-eats' in taiwan, it's certainly a lot more than just noodle soup with beef :)

[Joyce Siew]

i'm salivating...and can't wait my turn to arrive Taipei in November! Great post! Any tips for 'must-go' places? I love food. :)

[Andy]

Looks great again. I've been having plenty of noodle soups in Malaysia at the moment - they are so quick to prepare you hardly even have to stop to have lunch if you don't want.

Thanks
Andrew - http://onceuponathyme.wordpress.com/

[Amie]

Hey,greetings from Beijing. I really enjoy reading your blog:-)

[Pattabi Seshadri]

Love your blog! Not enough people know about Taiwan, so kudos for spreading the word. I too am a beef noodle lover--my wife's from Taipei and I got hooked on it when I was visiting her family. I usually go to a place off of Min Quan, but I will definitely try the King the next time I'm over there.

Pattabi
http://porkbelly.wordpress.com/

[Bordeaux]

This post will have me deep in debt and on the next available flight to Taiwan. I excitedly ordered niurou mian like this at a smallish Chinese restaurant here in Cape Town a while ago just to be severely disappointed. What was served to me was a bowl of noodles with lightly boiled cubes of beef. No trace of spices in the broth, none! I was so angered that I vowed never to go back. Although, a Chinese friend just told us that this place serves great food, but that they have a different menu for South African than for Chinese customers. I suppose that is some sad comment on the un-adventurous taste-buds of lots of people here. Thanks for these entries on this fantastic island, I really relish them.

[Robyn]

Bordeaux - we have to thank you and Xander. His posts really prompted us to head to Taiwan. And we can't wait to go back for a return visit.
BTW - 'secret' menus are much sought-after in the US. It's usually a guarantee of some excellent, authentic grub! Send me a scan if you need help translating the Chinese menu.

Pattabi and Arnie - thanks! Arnie, you are in noodle and dumpling central up there in Beijing.

Andy-thanks.

Joyce - I would categorize every one of the Taipei places we've blogged as 'must-go'. Stay tuned, there will be more.

Chin - you are so right. 'Beef noodle soup' is such a pedestrian name for such a sublime dish.

kirbie - hop on that plane!

bayi - I suppose we've gotten pretty good at sniffing out good spots. Either that or we're very lucky. Then again we're always willing to eat more than the usual three meals a day when we travel, so it's kind of 'if the first lunch doesn't excite you, try, try again'!

[Madamehuang]

You are making me soooo homesick!

[Robert Danhi]

Well done folks, you just sealed the deal...on my way to Taiwan next year for sure...maybe later this year. Photos, as always, are spot on and you made me hungry.

Looking forward to seeing you both again soon - will be teaching at CIA in SIngapore later this year...be in touch. Thanks for the adventure!

[Stephanie]

Great post! I love Taiwan and Taiwanese niu rou mian. Can't wait to return soon and this time, bringing my boyfriend to try all of the famous street food Taiwan is known for!

[Marlenaspieler]

these noodles are calling me, calling me, all the way to taipei!