Lor Mee, Oh My!

These two men are tucking into what is, if not the finest lor mee in George Town, probably the most appreciated. It's dished up six days a week at a somewhat obscure kopitiam called Lean Thye. Catch it if you can; the stall opens at 7am and is usually sold out by 9:30 or 10.

This was another happy accidental find, spotted one morning as, dog on leash, we rounded the corner onto Lebuh Ah Quee from Beach Street. Seven thirty and every table spilling out the front of the shop and onto the sidewalk next door was filled, the young dudes working the stall moving fast as lightening to fill orders (the above photo was taken just as they sold out, around 9:45a).

Dave and I nodded to each other, each thinking the same thing: 'We've got to check this place out before we leave town.'

Return we did, yesterday morning after feeding the dog and tending to the puppies (still homeless, by the way). We shared a table with two gentlemen who've been eating the dish for eons and from this particular stall for 'forty-five years or more', they said. How nice to learn from them that although the original seller recently retired, his sons have stepped in to carry on the business.

Lor mee is most simply described as yellow noodles in corn starch-thickened dark gravy, but of course there's more to the dish than that.

The gravy poured over this bowl of pasta is so thick it might almost be described as 'gloppy' -- but when it hits the noodles it thins to a perfect consistency, not too heavy but thick enough to really coat and cling to the pasta. Some lor mee gravies have a slight but appealing fishiness about them, but not this one, which is robustly meaty with an intriguing hint of star anise and cinammon. The barest flecks of egg are visible on its shiny surface.

Consider noodles (these guys mix mostly yellow mee with a few strands of rice vermicelli) and gravy the taste and texture 'base' of the dish.There's the dusting of crispy browned shallots that goes on top, then optional additions, which are listed on the white board above the prep station: sliced pork, soy-cooked duck eggs, and three-layer pork (lean meat, fat, and crispy skin).

Diners add further flavor table side in the form of fresh garlic paste and ground chili sauce. In KL and environs black vinegar often also graces the table, while at this stall tartness and heat come in one package -- the chili sauce has a sour vinegared edge.

We love that this stall offers a choice of not only 'small' and 'large' portions, but 'double XL' as well. With the specialties of other stalls to sample before we headed back to KL, we opted to share a small. It went down fast and easy, and saw us fighting for the last bits from the bottom of the bowl This is comfort food of the highest order: full-bodied in flavor, texturally easy to love (and a bit indulgent if you opt for duck egg and three-layer pork, as we did). A 'real shoveler', as Dave would say.

No wonder this lor mee stall is still going strong after almost half a century. May its new operators enjoy as much success as their father did. Long live lor mee at Lean Thye!

Lor mee stall, Lean Thye, Lebuh Ah Quee about half a block from Beach Street, Georgetown, Penang. 7am till it's sold out, usually by 9:30 or 10am. Closed Sundays and the occasional odd day (noted on the white board above the prep station). RM 2.50 small / 3.00 large / 4.00 double XL. Pork and duck egg RM 1.00 each.

 

Comments

[Borneoboy]

Oh Robyn ! You really know how to tempt us !

[paul]

Looks fantastic, thank you - making notes for my next trip to Penang - sadly not until Easter 2010 !

[Meng]

I have not had Lor Mee in ages. I hope you will find homes for the puppies. My last trip to Penang was in 2004. The island has not changed much. Do you own a place there?

[skinner]

another great post -- I spent a short time in Penang and I really appreciate your pieces. They bring me back. You feature the best dishes and spots, and the writing and photos (which I must admit I wish the close-ups weren't always tilt-shiftey because I can't see the surrounding detail) are as good or better than anything else on the web -- big thanks to you.

[ska]

I went to USM 30 years ago. This brings back such fond memories of Penang. Thank you for educating and sharing your finds.

[J2Kfm]

there;s this rather famous lor mee-hokkien mee mash-up combination on Jln Burma, that only opens at night i believe.

thats the ONLY Lor Mee i like, for I'm no fan of sticky, sloppy noodles. yikes ...

[Robyn]

Borneoboy - Penang is served by no less than three Malaysian airlines. There must be dozens of flights a day. So what's your excuse? ;-)

Paul - The good news is that I'm 99.9% sure that all these places will still be around then. Hope you're setting aside sufficient time for all the must-eats!

Meng - no, unfortunately. But we've had a fair bit of work there in the last couple months and are fortunate enough to be able to stay at a friend's house when we get up there on our own steam.

ska and skinner - you're very welcome. skinner, I'm sure the photographer is noting your words on the photos.

J2Kfm - that sounds interesting. Next trip, perhaps. These aren't at all sticky, just saucy. And maybe a bit sloppy. What's wrong with sloppy?!

[Grace A]

"No wonder this lor mee stall is still going strong after almost half a decade"

do you mean century?

[Rasa Malaysia]

What I love most about lor mee is the garlic sauce.

Lor mee originated from Xiamen/Fujian. When I was in Xiamen a few years ago, I saw the exact same thing, albeit less "polished" than the Penang version. :)

[Robyn]

Grace - yes I do. Thanks for pointing that out.

Bee - Yes, it's a Hokkien dish.

[550ml jar of faith @minchow]

I'm on the fence about lor mee. I love the flavour, not so much the texture and consistency. Hmm is KL Hokkien Mee the closest thing you can get to a less sloppy version of this?

[Borneoboy]

Hi Robyn. I was in Penang for a short visit last year. Only 4 days, not enough time to try everything. Planning a trip again next year, but not sure yet as I also have plans for Chiang Mai, Bangkok and Shanghai.

I've tried the lor mee at our local Old Town Coffee outlet but it's just not the same.

[Marie]

It looks like the thickness of the sauce might be something akin to the one you get on Thai rad naa. Does that sound about right? If so, I'm definitely going to seek this out next time along with a nice iced coffee!

[KY]

god, i'm from penang and i didn't know about this place, thanks!

[Lynn]

I am so delighted to have found eatingasia; my husband and I have a Malaysia/Thailand trip planned for the month of November and my anticipation increases with every post I read and every photograph I admire. Thank you so much!

[Robyn]

Lynn - Thanks much and best wishes for a delicious visit to Malaysia!