Khao Soi: The Whole Truth - Or Not

Back in February, with the help of a Thai friend, we spent several days nosing around Chiang Mai in an attempt to sniff out a definitive khao soi history. I won't claim that we succeeded, but we did turn up a few interesting tidbits.

It's complicated. Much too complicated for 800 words. So for now, here's our khao soi primer, published in today's edition of Wall Street Journal Asia's 'Weekend Asia'. 

Next, the back story.

Comments

[the lacquer spoon]

Hi from Tokyo! And thanks for making my mouth watery :) Your photo and writing are yum enough :))

[bkkdreamer]

It can be had elsewhere in Thailand, of course, including Bangkok, where I live.

My Thai boyfriend buys it for me occasionally, though it has been a while since we ate it.

'You can buy it in town, but to find a really tasty dish [someone who makes it well] is hard,' he says.

[John Mc]

I travel to Chiang Mai at least 3 times a year on business. I've eaten Khao Soi at quite a few places, including some rather up-scale. But the best I've discovered is at a little roadside stall between Chiang Mai and Doi Saket. I only wish I knew enough Thai to remember its name.

I've also tried the dish elsewhere and it's never been quite the same as it is in Thailand's North. In fact Phnom Penh's venerable Foreign Correspondent's Club's version was the worst. Ever.

[khao soi addict]

I lived in Northern Thailand for a few years and became somewhat obsessed by khao soi in my time there.

The very best khao soi I ever found was in a restaurant plastered with pictures of visiting Thai celebrities in the Suksawat/Suksawat neighbourhood of Lampang, just a minute's drive from Big C and the Superhighway.

[3hungrytummies]

My favourite khao soi is still at Samoe Jai Fah Ham in Chiangmai.
You did a wonderful job describing this wonderful dish in 800 words!!

[Zaw]

In Burmese, khao soi is a generic name given to a noodle dish. In this case we would call it coconut khao soi. The Shan dish you are referring to in the article would be called Shan khao soi. Some noodle salads would be called khao soi thote.

[Zaw]

I have never been to Thailand but I lived the first 10 years of my life in Burma. The few times I saw this dish on this website, I thought it was a local version of the Burmese dish as the article mentioned. I'm not sure how much it was adapted but it looks nearly identical to the one I grew up eating and the recipe my family uses. It's mainly a chicken curry based sauce that is diluted with coconut milk to make the broth. We always eat it with egg noodles and I don't remember ever having it with rice noodles. Hope this helps.

[Robyn]

lacquerspoon - welcome! And thank you.

I think your boyfriend is right. I've never had a really good version in Bangkok (too sweet, usually) and of the dozens of version found in and around Chiang Mai and the north most are just O.K. It really is a matter of balance.

Thanks John. There must be, what, 10 stalls betw Chiang Mai and Doi Sakhet? Well, if you return, make a note of the stall and drop the name here, if you would.

khao soi addict - thanks for the tip. Hope to return to Lampang in the not-too-distant future, so if we can find it will check it out.

3hungrytummies - for me sameoi jai's version is a little too sweet and too 'curry-ish' as in curry powder. But khao soi preferences are very personal. I know it's Thaksin's favorite, his mug is plastered all over the place's walls.

Hi Zaw, thanks for your comments as always. I have much to add on khao soi in the next post, so please add your comments there as well. Cheers.

[Cruise Deals]

I'm a big fan of Asian food! Every time I have a chance or a choice I take my wive to Asian restaurant. It is good, healthy and not so expensive:) Last time I was in Caribbean cruise, we got an excellent Asian cook on the board:)