The New York Times recently named Kuala Lumpur one of The 31 Places to Go in 2010. It's about time, we say -- after almost four and a half years here we still love this city, for its friendly, food-obsessed residents and stupendous eats.
If you're here via the NY Times you may want to have a look at our feature story on KL (as it's known to locals) that appeared about a year ago in Budget Travel magazine with recommendations for what to do and eat and where to shop (there's also a slide show) in and around KL.
Check out the Kuala Lumpur and Klang Valley category on our sidebar (be prepared to scroll -- there's 48+ worth's months of posts there, including some only tangentially related to KL) for more noshing suggestions. You might also occasionally be able to find our food reviews and feature stories at Time Out Kuala Lumpur, where Robyn was Food Editor for 18 months.
(If you're headed elsewhere in the region, you'll also find here fairly extensive coverage of Penang, Jakarta, Chiang Mai, Bangkok, southern and central Vietnam, the Philippines, and Taiwan.)
Finally, in the interest of making things simple, our Top Ten Eats in KL -- hawker stalls, kopitiam (Chinese coffee shops), and restaurants that, after all these months, we continue to return to again and again. In no particular order:
- Sek Yuen, a fantastic old Cantonese joint where everything is still cooked over wood, which Robyn lovingly described here.
- Yut Kee
- Hong Ngek
- Imbi Market -- downtown KL's last traditional wet market. Cruise the fresh food aisles to get an idea of what's put to use in Malaysian kitchens, then head over to the busy food court for fantastic versions of all sorts of hawker foods, from noodles to kuih (sweets).
- Pak Din Ikan Bakar
- Bakti Woodlands (order the thali, and check the front counter to see if lacy pancakes filled with sweetened, cardamom-scented mashed daal are on offer)
- Hakka Mee (Pork Lovers -- Alert!)
- Homemade coconut milk and palm sugar kuih (sweets) from Ah Meng's mobile stall, Bangsar (daily from about 3pm -- if you arrive much after 4:30 you'll find nothing left).
- Bak Kut Teh in Klang (this will require a 45-minute taxi ride, but if you're a hardcore pork lover it's worth it. While you're in Klang you might also check out its Little India.)
- Madras Lane Asam Laksa, Chinatown
Having had a meal at "Sek Yuen", while the sweet-and-sour fish is pretty good, I would say it is not exceptional. One could get as good a sweet-and-sour fish in one of the better Tai Thong restaurant outlets. The shark's fin dish was a disappointment, it felt soggy and was a bit on the cold side.
Yut Kee's friend belacan rice is very good. But their 'chop's seem over-soggy, you could get a better 'chop' at a Kluang Station outlet. Haven't had the chance to try their "roti babi"/pork bun or their kaya.
I would recommend first-time visitors to KL to seek out the famous "char siew"/roast-caramalized pork places, banana leaf rice, and a few of the very good Teik Seng-level "choor-char" places (Soo Kee would be one example).
Posted by: Observer | 2010.01.11 at 14:39
Hi Robyn
What perfect timing! We are headed to KL next week. I have only just recently stumbled upon your blog and have been spending a lot of time reading all the old posts on KL and Klang. I am Australian but lived in Penang as a teenager (back in the 80's!!)and returned 2 years ago and wished i had the benefit of your blog then. We are just going to KL this trip (as well as Siem Reap) and I can't wait to try your Top 10. I also think i will make a trip to find those donuts you mentioned - we use to get great donuts in Penang! YUM - I can't wait!
Thanks for the great blog.
Karen
Posted by: Karen Aspros | 2010.01.11 at 15:58
This is just the list I needed! We'll be in KL in March, and excited to try some of these spots out-- especially that Madras Lane laksa. -X
Posted by: Xander | 2010.01.11 at 21:10
Really! Then it is time for me to change my list and put Malaysia in my list of places to visit this year!
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Posted by: Nick Matyas | 2010.01.13 at 07:10
thanks for sharing that.. :)
Posted by: Anxiety And Depression | 2010.01.14 at 00:10
I spent about 8 hours in KL last year just in the airport but even there the food was beautiful :)
Posted by: meemalee | 2010.01.14 at 03:57
Yay, have been completely out of the loop for a few weeks, family in town and no time for internet. I am glad that this year Malaysia made the list again!
Posted by: Rasa Malaysia | 2010.01.16 at 08:58
I live in Kuala Lumpur and really glad to know about this fact.
Kuala Lumpur is relatively very hot compared to the cities in the western parts of the world but that is actually one of the reasons people from USA or Europe come to Malaysia.
With the Malaysia Tourism tagline "truly Asia", you can enjoy varieties of food or cuisine from many ethnics here.
Posted by: Sapawi | 2010.01.16 at 14:05
I’ve booked into a hotel in Kuala Lumpur close to ‘Little India’. Any good eating joints in this area? I love authentic eastern food!
Posted by: Aland | 2010.05.13 at 20:53
Aland - There are a couple 'Little India's. If it's Brickfields Little India you're near, we like this very simple, old-style Chinese place on Jalan Tun Sambanthan:
http://eatingasia.typepad.com/eatingasia/2006/03/a_fine_chinese_.html
as well as Chat Masala, which is on the opposite side of the street further away from KL Hilton in the more Indian section of Brickfields.
Also recommnend Vishal Food & Catering for banana leaf rice meals and Ghandi's for excellent vegetarian Indian. You can get details on both by googling their name followed by 'Brickfields'.
Posted by: Robyn | 2010.05.14 at 17:00
Must remember this list when I go to KL, thnx Robyn. My sister-in-law lives there. It's making me want to fly over right NOW.
Posted by: Eleanor Hoh (WokStar) | 2010.07.09 at 10:49
Great to read your post, next month I'm on journey to Malaysia and it is great to no that i going to have such a great time. I love Asian food, the variety of flavors are stunning.
Posted by: holy land tours | 2010.09.27 at 02:22
Very inspiring and frustrating because I'm sitting here in Sydney wondering what to cook for dinner tonight and all I can think of is Malaysian food.
Re: Imbi Markets (No.4), the guy selling Chai Choi (chinese vegetarian) comes a few times a week. It's a must, but get in early morning otherwise its gone. The quiet little guy selling Cheong Fan and Yong Taofu (near the right hand side of the food section) when you walk in from the main entrance is another must.
About 5 minutes away from Imbi market, the small carpark near the Honda showroom has some excellent hawker food at night. During the day near the corner of the Honda building at Jalan Jati, there's a guy selling good curry puffs. He's been doing this for more than 40 years - an institution for some locals. He use to do excellent doughnuts as well, but sadly business seems slow.
And the kopitiam / coffeeshop on Jalan Imbi near the corner opposite the carpark does good food.
Unfortunately, the government have plans to redevelop this whole area south-east of Bukit Bintang - so Imbi Markets might not be around in a few years. I really hope not, because it's a really special place that means a lot to many locals, is central to the heritage of this part of KL and continues to sustain the local community. But its a place for 'little' people and not the big timers who run the world, who only see quantity and are blind to quality.
Posted by: Roger | 2011.01.05 at 16:53