Over Easy

Yes, that is an omelet. And no, this is not me backing down on my 'in praise of unfamiliar breakfasts'  manifesto of a couple weeks ago. This is a Lao omelet, and it was eaten in Luang Prabang, while sitting streetside on a wee wooden bench. 

But that's not what makes it worthy of mention. This ethereally fluffy egg pancake was lightly folded over its contents like an envelope made of air. It enclosed a mixture of bean sprouts, green leaves, and herbs cooked barely past crisp-tender, and discs of local white sausage that boasted a rich porkiness. That's what makes this omelet a memorable one.

If you've traveled in Vietnam you may have had similar -- beaten eggs are mixed with a batter of rice flour and water, then swirled to paper thinness over the surface of a large wok. In go beansprouts and leaves.

 

 

A lid placed over the pan for a couple minutes softens the greens, and then the eggs are carefully folded over.

 

Taken with a dip of fish sauce, lime juice, fresh chili paste, and peanuts, it's one of the best omelets you'll ever eat.

I must admit, however, that the foreigner in me was imagining what this vendor could do with mushrooms and a wedge of goat cheese.

Lao omelet vendor, on street outside Talat Dara (Dara Market) near intersection with old hospital (now Amantaka resort). Excellent fresh spring rolls are also sold here. Caveat No 1 -- she's not entirely dependable but when she does show up it's around 1pm or 1:30. Caveat No 2 -- her sister (larger, rounder), who sometimes fills in, makes an equally tasty, if less finessed (torn in places, perhaps not quite as deftly folded) omelet.

Comments

[Steve Jackson]

That reminds me I've been meaning to find the Vietnamese equivalent in Hanoi (more of Southern dish - I think) but it's got to be out there somewhere.

But that looks fabulous.

[Joshua Armstrong]

I've eaten on that same stall I believe. Is this the one?

http://cookingthebooks.typepad.com/cooking_the_books/2009/07/laos-omelette.html

So saying now I look closer I'm not sure.

I agree wholeheartedly with your unfamiliar breakfasts manifesto. For the 7 months I spent in Asia last year an unfmailiar breakfast was one of the highlights of each day.

Have you had the pig offal heavy noodle soup on the main (tourist) drag in Luang Prabang? Back down away from the shops/cafes towards the temples. I think they call it khao put (well something that sounds like it anyway). A big plastic bowl of freshly boiled pig offal which you take as much as you want from with your chopsticks and they then cover with noodles, lots of shredded lemongrass and banana flower and a coconut broth. Was one of my most interesting breakfasts of the trip, never got around to blogging it though unfortunately.

[the lacquer spoon]

Thanks for the new info on Lao omelette. Love to find where to offer the dish in Tokyo though in taste it won’t be comparable to the flesh version cooked at the actual site.

[J2Kfm]

YES! The crunchy crushed peanuts, robust fish sauce, slices of chillies, and minced pork/prawns within.
Wait, that's MY favourite omelette in Hanoi.
Never bothered to get the name though. So it's LAO then...

[foodbin]

eat it on the side with bread-fulfilling.

[Sticky]

I'm with you on this one, Robyn. It was the most satisfying egg breakfast I've had. Still think about it...http://stickyrice.typepad.com/my_weblog/2007/10/street-wok-omel.html

[Robyn]

Joshua -- That's the one. We did eat at a noodle stall that offered offal and meat foe/pho (as well as kao soy). Didn't have a coconut milk soup though -- that's not so much Luang Prabang style as more southern. Like N Thai food N Lao food doesn't feature as much coconut milk as further south.

foodbin - not sure I could've fit in any bread! This was a very filling meal.

Hi Sticky -- maybe not same lady ... yours looks a bit more banh beo like in its golden crispiness. But you seemed to enjoy it as much as we enjoyed ours.

J2kfm - I wouldn't wager that Laos 'own' this type of egg dish .... variations all over the region. You're right though -- the peanuts really sort of make the dish (with the chilies).

the lacquer spoon - have you got decent Lao and Viet food in Tokyo?

[Joshua Armstrong]

I definitely didn't see a lot of coconut milk around there. I think this dish had it in though and both times we had it were in the north, once in LP and the other in the Chinese market in Luang Nam Tha where there was very little meat and masses of pig's blood. Wish I'd taken a picture of either but both times I was caught without my camera.

[Sarah]

I must say, what a lovely nonstick wok, I wonder what it is made of (carbon steel, aluminum?) and how much oil, if any he had to brush on the wok to keep the egg from sticking?
The egg looks delicious!

[the lacquer spoon]

In Tokyo, there’re many Thai and Vietnamese restaurants (from high-end to no-frills) cooked by their native chefs, but I need to explore the city more to find good Lao food. Apparently, it’s mixed up with Thai food here...

[Casey]

Have you tried the Philippine version of egg omelette? I've tried it during vacation 2 years ago and it was kind of "I'd like to forget my diet".