In Istanbul, the Contrarian's Balık Ekmek

Anyone who visits Istanbul must eat balık ekmek (fish sandwich; balık=fish, ekmek=bread). Seriously. It's not codified in law or anything, but eating a grilled fish sandwich next to the water is as required of tourists in Istanbul as spending at least half a day dodging carpet sellers in Sultanahmet.

Unlike Sultanahmet's carpet sellers however, balık ekmek is something you'll want to revisit on subsequent Istanbul sojourns. We ate our share our first, second, and third times in Istanbul. This last trip was no different.

Most of those seeking the ultimate balık ekmek experience head to the sellers on either side of the Eminonu end of the Galata bridge. Grillers and servers sport embroidered Ottoman-ish (we're guessing) outfits that suggest they've been plying their trade in those very spots for, oh, centuries. They are an Istanbul grilled fish sandwich tradition and we can't complain about their product.

We also sampled balık ekmek on the other side of the Galata Bridge, next to Karakoy's fish market. On the weekends a couple of sellers there do a fine job, sprinkling herbs and ground red chili onto the mackerel fillets as they pop and smoke on the grill, and serving the sandwich with a generous squeeze of lemon, a decent amount of shrubbery (lettuce, carrots, tomato) and on request, a delicious smear of piquant chili paste.

(If you're looking for a sit-down experience there are a few casual restaurants beyond the fish stalls that serve sandwiches as well as fish plates. Take note: the sandwiches served on weekdays by a permanent stall steps from the bridge are dismal.)

 

But when it comes to must-eat grilled fish sandwiches in Istanbul we take a contrarian view. Forget Galata and head instead one span northwest to Ataturk Bridge. On the Fatih side, sandwiched between humble fishing boats and large Bosphorus tour cruisers, is a fish sandwich boat run by Mercan, a Kurd from Elazig in eastern Turkey. Mercan has been stuffing bread with grilled fish at this spot for a little over 20 years.

 

Cast your eyes on the peppers on Mercan's grill. This, he insists, is his southeastern (and Kurdish) improv on the classic Istanbul-style grilled fish sandwich.

"You can eat peppers then?" he confirms not one but three times before adding a few to our sandwich. 

 

What's good about Mercan's balık ekmek? The mackerel fillets -- generously proportioned -- and the bread, bearing a beautiful char from the grilled and perfectly sized, so that fish is not lost in a sea of dough. The salad, which is fresh and crispy and if you like, piled onto your sandwich freely. The peppers of course, soft from the grill and spicier than they might appear.

Mercan is open for business as early as 9:30am, which is when we stumbled across his boat on our way to Fatih. At that hour you'll share the waterfront promenade in front of which his boat is parked with only a few strolling locals and the occasional chatty Bosphorus tour boat captain idling before his first group arrives.

Pull up a stool and enjoy a grilled fish sandwich or two under Mercan's big blue umbrella. There are no queues, no crowds. It's hard to imagine a better start to a day.

 

Mercan's balık ekmek boat, at the base of Ataturk bridge on the Fatih side (across from Galata). 1 sandwich, 4 Turkish lira.

Comments

[Wen]

Babs and I read this after a giant Argentinean dinner and we still both drooled WAAAAAAAAH at this. Fond(?) memories of fighting over balik ekmek in Istanbul. Why we ever tried to share them I still don't know.

[Andrea Rademan]

While you were in Turkey, did you discover the town on the Bosphorus, just down from Istanbul, that is famous for their yogurt?

[Wendy Macdonald]

I am off to Istanbul next week for the first time so I look forward to trying your recommendations. Thanks for the tips.

[Robyn]

Wen-the way you guys have been eating the last year, I have no sympathy! (We don't share anything anymore, BTW.)

Andrea - we made it to Kanlica for yogurt on our second or third trip, way back in 2000 or so. Didn't make it this time around.

Wendy - Enjoy! Also, pick up the book by Istanbul Eats or at least be sure to browse their site. Recommendations are spot-on, those guys know their stuff. istanbuleats.com

[Christy]

THis is interesting!! I love fish and this is such a great sharing =)

[Katie @ Cozydelicious]

Your photos are amazing! I want to be in Turkey right now! This looks wonderful!

[murvet]

Guys,the photos are so amazing I could smell the fish and taste the peppers!

[Ansel]

Great review! I will hunt down Mercan usta this weekend.
If the balik/ekmek ratio is in place, this can be an awesome sandwich. After eating them happily for years, I was a little put off to discover that most of these guys are sourcing their mackerel from Norway. But if the bread is toasted and the peppers are hot, who the hell cares?

[ipek]

We are Turkish and going for vacation to Turkey in 2 days. My husband loves Balik ekmek from one of those boats. Thank you for posting this and lovely-lively pictures from Istanbul the lovely:)
Ipek

[Robyn]

Christie, Katie, Murvet - thank you! Creds to the photographer (which is not me).

Ansel -- that makes me a little nervous. Your balik ekmek palate is undoubtedly more highly developed than my own.
And I agree with you about the fish. (Also, I often contemplated ordering an extra fillet at these balik ekmek stalls. I think I will next time I am able to have one. Why not?)

Ipek -- lucky you! Enjoy -- I wish I was back in Turkey right now.

[Wen]

Haha! No, I wouldn't have a lick of sympathy for us either.

For those enroute to Istanbul, I just wanted to share a photo of the balik ekmek cart that caused my (usually generous) husband to shout "you snooze you lose" at me because I had been "wasting time taking photos" instead of eating my share of the balik ekmek http://bit.ly/65kJ7f

Ansel - Norway?! Have mackeral been all fished out in closer waters? (dismay)

[Maninas]

Balik ekmek was one of our best in Istanbul on a trip there last July! This was near the Galata bridge, in the fish market in Galata. It was served with a gorgeous herby salad that I adored.
Mackrel really can be a glorious fish!

[David]

amazing Turkeyyyyy

[nicole]

Great article thanks!