We're just back from a whirlwind jaunt to Kuching, in east Malaysia.
Dave was on assignment and had quite alot of ground to cover in not a lot of time. So food, other than dishes he was asked to shoot, did not figure large in this rushed trip. But between orangutangs, longhouses, boat rides and walking the city up, down, and around dozens of times, we did manage a few great bites.
These "Chinese hamburgers" (the vendor's monikor), served up by a Fuzhou-nese hawker in a coffee shop on Padungan Road, were among the best.
More Sloppy Joes than burger, they consist of roughly minced pork sauteed with sugar, maybe a smidge of soy sauce, and black pepper, stuffed into deep-fried sesame seed-coated buns. Bagel-like is how I would describe the buns; they're wheaty, dense and chewy. Or maybe I should say "pepper biscuit-like", because except for its crispy fried exterior their dough is quite reminiscent of that gracing these oven-baked peppery pork-stuffed treats we enjoyed on the street in Taipei.
The burgers/sloppy joes are served with saucers of super-hot minced fresh chilies bathed in dark (but not sweet) soy sauce. The spicy-saltiness of the dip perfectly complements the greasy sweetness of the burgers.
A definate do not miss taste for any pork-loving visitor headed to Sarawak's lovely laid-back capital.
"Chinese hamburgers", Foochow stall in coffee shop on Jalan Padungan, Kuching. Here's the rub -- I didn't get the shop's name. But it is on the north side of the street and if you're walking along Padungan from the Majestic Hotel the coffee shop is located on the first or second corner after Batik Boutique Hotel. This is a morning place, and it's very popular. The stall also served rice wine chicken beehoon and a few other Foochow noodle dishes.
Hi Robyn. You came to Kuching and didn't contact me ? Would have taken you to some great hawker food !
Understand you were on busy schedule. Let me know when you visit next time and I'll gladly show you around Kuching's culinary trail.
Posted by: borneoboy | 2010.12.20 at 17:59
Yeah, I know. But we only had 2 days, and Dave was literally chasing shots dawn to bedtime. But it's reminded us how great Kuching is. We'll be back, with some time to spare, and we'll be in contact. :-)
Posted by: Robyn | 2010.12.20 at 18:02
Looks delicious. I love a good sloppy joe. You think this could be attempted at home? The buns might be a challenge.
I didn't go to Kuching when I was in the area. How high on the list of places I still haven't been to should I put it?
Posted by: Lina | 2010.12.20 at 18:09
The bun might be a prob, yes.
I would place Kuching high, but it is sleepy. The rest of Sarawak even higher though. Sarawakians must be the friendliest, laid-back people in SE Asia. Even more so than Penang. I'm dying to go back.
Posted by: Robyn | 2010.12.20 at 18:17
Looks delicious with good meat to bun ratio. And deep fried bun for extra oomph:) Excellent picture.
Posted by: Three-Cookies | 2010.12.20 at 19:41
Hi Lina. Kuching is a pretty laid back place and "some people" are still friendly, unfortunately not all as we are slowly catching the "Big City Disease". There are lots of things to do especially if you love nature. The town itself will keep you occupied for a couple of days. And for a foodie - lots of great local hawker food to try out. We are famous for our laksa, kolo me, tomato kuih tiaw, etc. A visit is definitely worth your while.
Posted by: borneoboy | 2010.12.20 at 20:21
Hot damn! My grandma's Foochow. I need to show this to my Mum to show to her...
Wen
Posted by: Going With My Gut | 2010.12.21 at 06:03
Looks really good, bet they tasted good as well.
Will be trying this at home but with other buns....
Posted by: Mzungu | 2010.12.21 at 06:20
This is actually foochow's "gongpia". These originated out of necessity in the old days when soldiers going into battle would hang these plain,disc like buns around their necks, and these would be their meals for days. Nowadays, it has gotten fancier with braised meat fillings, crackling pork skin, etc. They are like mini bagels, just crispier on the outside. I have to get these everytime I'm back in sarawak.
Posted by: ding | 2010.12.21 at 10:18
Ding - thanks for that info. And yes, they are very bagel-like.
Mzungu -- you might try larger versions with a deep-fried bagel. The bread's texture is important. I would wager than the meat is cooked with palm sugar. It's got a caramel-y flavor and is quite sticky.
Posted by: Robyn | 2010.12.21 at 14:02
Look like small hamburger, realy nice :)
Posted by: FrenchyCuisine | 2010.12.21 at 23:42
oh! i've been reading your blog for the longest time. I'm from east malaysia, and I'm so pleased you found kompia, but I absolutely IMPLORE you to nip over to Sibu for the real deal; that way you can sample the more old school version as well: same bread, only filled with garlicky braised belly pork and all tht gorgeous braising liquid
Posted by: Jade | 2010.12.25 at 04:17
Sloppy joes, a sort of hamburgers, from East Malaysia? Thanks.
Posted by: CalogeroMira | 2010.12.26 at 09:12
Kuching is an amazing City that I last visited in 2003 but will certainly visit again. I never heard of those Chinese hamburgers and look forward to try them one day.
Posted by: S Lloyd | 2010.12.28 at 13:42
hmm, the dishes seems to be sooooooooo yummy
Posted by: Voyager Inde | 2010.12.28 at 15:33