Sinop: It's Not Just About the Hamsi

"Sinop is paradise, it's the best city in all of Turkey. But not now! You must come back in the summer!"

This we heard over and over from residents of Sinop, where we enjoyed the best hamsi (anchovy) of our most recent trip to Turkey.

Frankly, we can't imagine wanting to return to Sinop in the summer. According to these boosterish locals the city's population of 30,000 bloats to 200,000 in July and August, when tourists descend on its campgrounds and fill its hotels. They come for beaches and sun, boating out of the city's idyllic harbor and, of course, fish.

No way. Not for us. Give us Sinop -- or any of Turkey's ocean or lakeside vacation spots, for that matter -- off season, when hotels are empty, restaurants don't require reservations, empty tables at tea gardens beckon, and the eye isn't assaulted by meters of flesh that shouldn't be seeing the light of day in the first place. For us, crowds are something to be avoided, not sought out.

We were in Sinop for only two days but would gladly have lingered a few more if we'd had the time. To be honest there's not much to do in Turkey's northernost city, but then tourist sites are not what floats our boat anyway. We did visit the city's 7th-century (BC) kale or fortress and, after inquiring for the key at the model boat shop across the street from its entrance, we had the ramparts to ourselves.

We stopped in at Sinop's Seljuk-era mosque and admired its fountain, took a spin through the city's medrese (and wished that we'd known earlier about the small cafe there serving local specialties), walked the U-shaped promenade around its picturesque harbor.

We drank glasses and glasses of tea, dividing our time between the various cay evi (tea houses) and tea gardens that face onto fishing boats awaiting their next trip out: one for grizzled fishermen, another that inexplicably morphed, around mid-afternoon, from old-timers' idling spot to young hipster hangout, and still another that offered free wifi (we didn't take advantage).

We chatted with Sinop's friendly, laid-back residents (another bonus of off-season travel: the unharried locals have time, and the inclination, to talk). We shopped for culinary souvenirs. (found, and carried back to Malaysia: strips tangy peach pestil -- fruit leather -- rolled around chopped fresh walnuts and doused with honey. And, of course, we ate.

Hamsi, mostly. And barbunya, forefinger-long red mullet dusted with flour and deep-fried. After our massive lunch at Mert's we hardly had inclination for dinner. But we did manage to sample two other Sinop specialties: nokul and cevizli mantisi.

Nokul are spiral pastries some 8 inches/20 centimeters across, made with several fillings. Üzmlü ve cevizli nokul hide dried grapes (raisins, obviously, but the raisins in Turkey taste so much more like actual grapes than the raisins in the USA do), chopped walnuts, sugar, and are well lubricated with butter. There's minced lamb in there too, just a wee bit, enough to render this pastry taste-androgynous. Is it sweet or is it savory? Both equally, and intriguingly.

According to this nokul recipe there yogurt and olive oil go into the dough, which is 'wet', soft, elastic, and chewy rather than crisp and flaky. Nokul are not snack-y bites -- they're huge and heavy, and one is easily enough feed 3 or 4 eaters (or 2 gluttons) for breakfast. Other fillings include cheese (peynirli) and plain minced lamb (kıymalı).

We're manti (Turkish 'ravioli') lovers from way back, so when Mert told us about the local version made with walnuts we made straight for his recommended source. Imagine a huge plate of minced lamb-stuffed ravioli (small portions are not found, it seems, in your average Turkish restaurant) tossed in soupspoon fulls of rich freshly churned butter. Add handfuls of crushed walnuts so fresh that they're fairly oozing oil.This meal, our last in Sinop before we hit the road for Kastamonu, nearly put us over the top. But it was well worth the physical discomfort.

Beyond the butter and walnuts (manti are usually sauced with yogurt and melted butter), what's a bit different about Sinop's manti is their shape -- like a boat's sail, as Mert says -- and their skins, which are lighter and thinner (almost like wonton skins) than those of versions we've eaten elsewhere in Turkey.

At Teyzenin Yeri (Your Auntie's Place), the cafe in Sinop known for serving the best cevizli mantisi, the dumplings are made right in the dining room as you eat. Thick yogurt is offered alongside and we accepted. But we left much of it uneaten -- the tanginess of the dairy fought too fiercely with the lovely walnuts and local butter.

So, there's plenty of reason to visit to Sinop, even outside of hamsi season. I know we'll go back.

But not in the summer. No way.

 

 

Comments

[Sticky]

Definitely agree about the off-season advantages though I'm guessing oct/nov would be better in terms of temperature? Bet the pastries and ravioli help to keep one warm.

[Quay Po Cooks]

Great post and fabulous photograph. The cevizli mantisi looks so yummy!

[Robyn]

Sticky, I don't mind the cold -- it's better for walking IMO. (Then again I am coming from a way-too-hot and humid climate). Our first visit to Turkey was in late January, we were coming from gray and cold Shanghai, and it rained and snowed while we were in Istanbul. Loved it nonetheless!
If by "keep you warm" you mean by adding a little padding around the waist -- you are absolutely right. Paying the price now.

Quay Po - the manti are heavenly.

[Three-Cookies]

Nokul looks delicious, strange to have lamb but I am sure it works.

It seems the Turkish version of manti is the smallest. The Chinese and Central Asian cousins are much larger

[turkey's for life]

We've been posting about the advantages of visiting places in the off-season. So peaceful and you see the real beauty of the place, I feel.

This is the second post I've read today about mantı. I'm starting to get a big craving! :)
Julia

[foodie and the chef]

The manti... yummo. Wonderful photos, my father lived in Turkey for a long time and I've always wanted to see the sights. Now I'm wanting to eat the food too !

[Teri Y.]

I've always wanted to visit Turkey and your last two posts have just sealed the deal for me. I love your entries on Sinop and will definitely be on my itinerary when I visit Turkey (hopefully soon!).

[Ruth]

I have never heard about this city. I will look more about it. always like to discover new places. The food looks fantastic.

[Karen at Globetrotter Diaries]

Beautiful! Turkey is one of my dream destinations. Just made some Armenian manti on my blog last week so it was great seeing these.

[Bidoluhayat]

I am really interested in your posts about my country, I really enjoy while reading your travel notes and looking at your photos. As far as I see you have met hamsi, nokul and mantı in Sinop, I think it is one of the best locations for eating hamsi. Nokul and mantı are the special local tastes for Sinop. Thanks for sharing your experiences. (You tweeted that you have also visited Kastamonu, I hope you will post it on EatingAsia)
Bidoluhayat /Istanbul

[Sara]

Are there any nokul recipes in English? I'd love to try to make it. The only recipe I found calls not only for yogurt and olive oil, but also tahini. Does that sound right?

[Lex McDermott]

there's a dumpling of sorts in every culture, huh? nothing like a soft and delicious bread-y bundle of goodness.

[Christy]

Lovely lovely, I have heard so much about Turkey and seen so many photos on Turkey that just seems to be replaying itself on my mind and my places to visit...
I enjoyed reading your post and the photos, just makes me want to take a flight to Turkey almost immediately! =)

[The Quest For Zest]

So how did you find out out Sinop? Is it relatively "undiscovered" or do they see a lot of Europeans and Americans there in the high season?

Thanks for this tremendous article. Turkey is moving up our travel list rapidly, and may usurp India.

[asian denim]

Imagine a huge plate of minced lamb-stuffed ravioli (small portions are not found, it seems, in your average Turkish restaurant) tossed in soupspoon fulls of rich freshly churned butter...

hmm i love thats food,.,and i love this country

[Laura]

So glad I found this post; we're heading to Sinop in about a week seeking local specialties! Any recommendations on where to pick up nokal? I'm reeeeally hoping the hamsi are around, though I fear it's still too warm.

[Robyn]

Hi Laura -- we're heading back to Sinop on assignment in a couple weeks ourselves. Maybe we'll cross paths.
Don't worry about nokul -- they are everywhere in town and you'll have no problem sampling to find the best. Though you may gain some kilos in the process.