In Malacca - Laksa, Pickles, and Pai Tee

We're just back from a few days in Malacca. My notebook is full of scribblings, few of which concern food. Dave and I were there (and will be again soon) to work on a heritage story -- which means that, for a change, eating was not our primary concern.

But the beauty of working with a photographer is that while I'm busy with interviews he's out and about, walking the streets looking for great shots. Being Dave, he can't help also being on the lookout for delicious food -- even if that's not the storyline he's shooting to.

So kudos to The Photographer for rediscovering a great little food court on Temenggong Road, just outside of the old city. (A review of the archives reveals that we actually ate at this bustling spot three years ago.) It's home to a stall serving up some pretty exemplary Nyonya specialties.

 

This 75-year-old gentleman swears by Nancy's laksa

Like curry laksa. Nancy does a spare, almost spartan version, more broth than tofu puffs, cockles, and sprouts. Attention to detail is evident in the ever so thinly shaved cucumber and daun kesom (laksa leaf, aka Vietnamese coriander) garnish that she meticulously arranges with small tongs.

It also shows itself in her belacan-free sambal, which is bright with chili flavor (not just heat) and a hint of lime leaf.

Nancy's laksa gravy is superb. It smells and tastes of the freshest coconut milk, yet isn't so over-the-top rich as to weigh you down.

Which is a good thing, because you'd be crazy to walk away without tasting her version of pai tee, a Nyonya specialty rarely (if ever) seen on the street.

To be honest, I had never encountered a "top hat" -- little pastry cups filled with shrimp or pork, cucumber, stewed jicama and egg -- that I would willingly meet again. The versions I've sampled have always been more style than substance, cute but utlimately disappointing, with too-thick and/or too-oily shells and a lackluster filling.

Nancy's pai tee turned me. Assembled to order (like the laksa garnish, using those tiny tweezer-like tongs), they start with the barest possible fluted pastry shells, and finish with feathers of omelette and a dusting of caramelized sliced shallots. Nancy serves her delicious homemade sweet-hot chili sauce on the side rather than squirting a dab inside each pai tee, to preserve the crunch as long as possible.

Biting into one of her top hats, I finally "got" the point of this dish --- the shatteringly crisp shell, the warm and soft dark soy sauce-stewed jicama, the fresh crunchy cucumber, and the chewy egg strips together in one bite made for a lovely marriage of warm and cool, salty and sweet and a little bitter.

Incredible to encounter such a lovingly made version of such an intricate and delicate dish at a hawker stall. (Once again -- the unexpected delights of street food!)

Bonus: Dave re-stumbled upon Nancy's stall just as her mango tree is fruiting. Which means that we were able to pack home some fantastic mango pickle. On the tart side, somewhat crisp, and really tasting of the fruit, it'll make a perfect side for curry and shine equally as brightly on a sandwich. Also available: a lovely mango jam (fruit, a wee bit of sugar, and nothing else) and mango-dragonfruit jam (slightly less tart than straight mango).

Get 'em while you can.

Nancy's Nyonya Laksa, Pai Tee, etc.Tong Fang Coffeeshop/Food Court, 124 Jalan Temenggong, Melaka. Early morning to noonish, closed Wednesday.

Comments

[Hakkamui]

Looks absolutely delicious!
I was originally from Melaka and left 26 years ago! A friend of mine just started 2 "rest houses" there, 45 Lekiu and "the Stable", both are so gorgeous in different way, would you like to have a look?
Please don't forget to visit the small chinese shop in Pantai Kundor, near Petronas Refinery! Cheers!

[Marts Aziz]

My mother used to make mango pickles a lot, we have supply from mango trees planted around our house. I like them a lot, we even eat the pickles with rice as side dish.

After reading your entry, I think I'm going to make one. :-D

[EpicuriousTravels]

Wow, this looks and sounds incredible! I would love to dine here.

[Linda]

I love this post....wish I were there. This is a great photo...the edge of the mason jar so sharp and the wood grain popping out of the photo.

[Mzungu]

Laksa the food of the Gods ..... I make my own laksa paste and it reminds me so much of the good ones I had in Malaysia.
Never tried fresh mango pickle though.

[Jean]

Gorgeous photos and well-written article, as always! My mum was born in Malacca and is half-Nonya, so I grew up with plenty of exposure to the delicious Nonya food. Part of me wishes to take an extended trip back to Malaysia just to learn how to cook from my aging grandmother..

[J2Kfm]

Brilliant post. This has been raved upon, whenever the subject of authentic (and unpretentious) Nyonya cuisine was mentioned. All this while, I have only been to Donald & Lilly's, which is about a street or two away. But somehow, the food there lacked charisma, so to speak. Though the pongteh was good.

[Teri Y]

I think the laksa is calling out my name. Looks absolutely gorgeous. I like pie tees although I don't get to eat it as often as I'd like to.

My Singaporean husband and I always argue about whether Malaysian or Singaporean laksa is better. I think hands down any version of Malaysian laksa is better!

[Bill Murray]

This is just a consistently top-notch, well done blog. Congratulations. And thanks!

Bill
http://commonsenseandwhiskey.com

[jodi]

love pickled mango, although in Hawaii we dye it bright red. :)

[cheap jerseys]

But the beauty of working with a photographer is that while I'm busy with interviews he's out and about, walking the streets looking for great shots. Being Dave, he can't help also being on the lookout for delicious food -- even if that's not the storyline he's shooting to.

[Preeta]

Assam laksa is hands-down my favourite laksa, but I have to say that Nyonya laksa looks pretty delicious. I will be checking out this place on my next trip to Malacca.

Kuih pai tee is notoriously difficult to make well -- it's one of those fiddly Nyonya specialties that is usually mediocre but, as you have discovered, BRILLIANT when done well. In secondary school, my class almost attempted it for a fundraising fun fair. Can you imagine?!? Pai tee mass produced by teenage girls. Run away! We ended up making burgers and rojak instead, thank goodness.

[Manisha Chopra]

Malacca is really a nice place for spending holidays and the food here was so yummy that it still tickles my tongue.

[Tes]

Laksa is one of my favourite food and I think that must be one of the nicest place to eat laksa.
That jar of mango makes my mouth water :)

[Bee]

I have never tried the Melaka Nyonya Laksa. It looks or sounds like Penang curry mee but the cucumber and daun kesom toppings are very interesting...

[Kuei-Ti Lu]

The cucumber makes the cups taste fresh and is one of my favorite ingredients in summer.

I did not try mango pickle before. How does it taste? Does it have something in taste in common with other kinds of pickle?

[Jordan McDonald]

Love your blog...We stopped by Nancy's Laksa stall just this morning. "Did you read about me on EatingAsia?" she said. She's a real sweet lady...before I knew it she was giving me little samples of everything else she makes, too. Hard to believe this place is just 2 blocks from the Hard Rock Cafe.