Every journey brings a culinary epiphany or two.
On our last trip to Taiwan I discovered doujiang (soy milk). Wait -- that's not exactly accurate. I always knew about doujiang, of course. It's always been there -- as the lactose intolerant's best friend, or the dieter's substitute for milk in a latte, or something boxed that vegans drink.
But two years ago in Taiwan, which by the way -- I'm going to go out on a limb here -- is an equal to Japan in the ethereal-soy-bean-products-making department, I found that soy milk -- real fresh soy milk made in small batches by caring, careful soy milk makers -- is one of the world's most delicious, most refreshing and at the same time most healthy feeling beverages.
It's also one of the world's best breakfasts, especially when consumed with a just-fried, lightly salty you tiao (savory cruller). I reaffirmed soy milk's wonderfulness in Chengdu, and then again a couple of weeks ago in Taipei. After we arrived in Kaohsiung, in southern Taiwan, I pushed my soy bean obsession a bit further and began substituting it for cream in my coffee.
So yeah, doujiang is fabulous, and I'm hooked.
Then I found xian doujiang, which absolutely blew me away; it easily takes doujiang's greatness up several dozen notches. "Xian" means salty. And it's also used to indicate savoriness as opposed to sweetness, as when you ask a guobing vendor what's inside her oven-baked flatbreads and she answers "You xiande, you tiande." (There's savory ones and sweet ones.)
Actually I didn't find the salty soy milk. Dave did, when he was wandering around Kaohsiung one morning early in our stay as I was back at the hotel getting ready for a day of interviews. "I just had the most amazing breakfast!" he said as he burst into our room right before I left.
(That made me hate him for a minute. And then hate him more as he went into great detail about it.)
I forgave Dave the next day when he took me to Guo Mao Lai Lai [g-woah maow lie-lie] Doujiang, a corner shop in downtown Kaohsiung. And not just because of the doujiang, but also because in Guo Mao Lai Lai's open kitchen they craft what are without doubt among the best steamed dumplings I've ever eaten. Anywhere (I've spent some time in China, people), ever. These steamed dumplings boast wrappers both light and substantial, toothsome and fluffy, of the perfect thickness, and with so much wheat flavor. They're dumpling wrappers to die for.
But let's get back to that xian doujiang. It's simply fresh soy milk with a coagulant -- vinegar, I believe -- added to induce curdling. It's served hot, and ladled over your choice of condiments, which atGuo Mao Lai Lai include chopped pickled vegetable, teeny tiny translucent dried shrimp (southern Taiwan produces some lovely dried shrimp), browned shallots and chopped scallion.
If you get to the front of Guo Mao Lai Lai's doujiang queue, which moves frighteningly fast, and blurt out "Everything!!" -- because you don't think you can vocalize your choices quickly enough to keep the customers in line behind you from grumbling -- the doujiang server squirts some sesame oil into the bottom of a deep bowl, follows with the condiments one after the other, sluices on the doujiang from a nice height, and then tops it all with a pretty circle of lajiao you (red chili oil).
The doujiang gets appetizingly foamy -- though spooned up I suppose it looks something like baby food, as the soy milk curdles all around the condiments.
Don't judge a book as they say, because the shrimp and pickle and caramel-y shallot and crunchy scallions wrestle with the blandly bean-flavored doujiang in a way that is best described as, well, revelatory.
And what about those dumplings? Guo Mao Lai Lai does baked stuff too, and jian bing (griddled dough rolled around eggs), but I couldn't get past those steamed and steam-fried pale mounds of deliciousness.
They'are palm-sized, heavy in your hand, and filled with pork and cabbage or just pork or stuffed with garlicky Chinese chives and eaten, if you like, with a dip (or sauce) of more Chinese chives and chopped dried chilies soaked in soy sauce.
Guo Mao Lai Lai isn't especially new. Seven years ago this man, whose brother owns another xian doujiang and dumplings shop on the outskirts of Kaohsiung, opened it with his wife and family. It was obviously a good decision. The shop is crazy busy --- with only three picnic tables on the pavement out front seats can be hard to come by before 830 or 9am. They also sell doujiang bing (iced doujiang) and mijiang (rice milk).
But frankly you'd have to be an idiot to stop in at Guo Mao Lai Lai and skip the xian doujiang.
Guo Mao Lai Lai, at the corner of Liuhe 2nd and Zichiang Roads, Kaohsiung Taiwan. Mornings, closed on Sunday.
Now trying to figure out how to reach Taiwan. The range of food available in the orient is just so amazing...they really trausure their tummies
Posted by: Kalyan | 2011.07.08 at 15:42
Robyn, I hate you, and I mean that in the sweetest, most loving way imaginable. Or maybe I'm just hungry.
Posted by: Matt Gross | 2011.07.08 at 21:30
Salty soy milk is absolutely wonderful and a classic Taiwanese breakfast dish. I'm glad you like it!
Posted by: kirbie | 2011.07.09 at 01:00
I discovered your blog 2 days ago, and haven't been able to stop reading everything day and night. At first just to reminisce about all the Indonesian food I'm missing since I haven't been back home in over 10 years...Oh how I miss the food and I appreciate the fact that you went off the beaten path to Old Town Jakarta instead of just the usual tourist trap shopping malls...I always crave the noodles and all the Chinese Indonesian food in Glodok.
Now I'm just reading (obsessed) about how similar a lot of the cuisines in SE Asia are...
Thank you for your recent post, I've been eating Taiwanese breakfast for about 8 years now, but never dared to try the Salty Soy Milk...but I will now...
Can't wait for more!!
Posted by: Joan | 2011.07.09 at 02:46
Robyn,
Haha, I had to laugh about this post because my wife who is from Taiwan never even knew about xian doujiang until I told her about it and I grew up in the States. She's always had it as cold and sweet.
The first time she had xian doujiang was at IMEI in Rowland Hts, CA.
I always kid her about it whenever we have xian doujiang.
Posted by: JEFF C | 2011.07.09 at 05:51
OMG this looks amazing these pictures are KILLING ME!!!!
Posted by: Ariadne | 2011.07.09 at 06:40
Guo Mao doesnt mean anything in Mandarin. 'gwoah maow lie' pronounced in Taiwanese dialect means 'will visit again'.
You'll find these in writing in Taiwan and almost incomprehensible if you dont know the dialect - the best example is when you see Xia Mi (shrimp/dried shrimp) - it actually means 'What'(Sher Me in Mandarin)
Posted by: Katy | 2011.07.10 at 04:07
In the 永和 neighborhood of Taipei, there are a few shops selling these breakfast staples 24 hrs a day. Kinda like 24 hr IHOP (but with much better food ...), they sometimes get quite busy late in the night or very early morning, with a mix of post partying young people, folks who get up very early for early shifts of certain jobs, or just people hungry for 燒餅,油條,包子,豆漿 etc at weird hours.
Posted by: Albert | 2011.07.10 at 10:47
I loved reading this post. Fascinating. And those griddle-fried dumplings look amazing. I think I had an epiphany here, too.
Posted by: Madame Fromage | 2011.07.12 at 05:30
Oh, how I envy you.... :) I love doujiang but of the sweet variety since I've never tried the savoury one before nor heard of it.... I will try to locate some in Asia in a couple of weeks....
incidentally, I was in Sicily a couple of months back and went to a farm where they produce ricotta which rather reminded me of doujiang actually in that the texture was silky and smooth only salty instead of sweet. you can read it on my blog under 'say Cheeeeeeese'
thanks for this mouth watering post.... looking forward to breakfasting in SEAsia soon :)
Posted by: Eva Wong Nava | 2011.07.13 at 00:47
The name ‘Guo Mao Lai Lai’ is in two parts –‘Guo Mao’ is the name of an area in Zuoying the Veteran village. ‘Lai Lai Dou Jiang’ is similar to a ‘brand’ name of doujiang, same as ‘Yong He Dou Jiang’. You will find both these names in different parts of Taiwan. For example, there is ‘Yong He Dou Jiang’ in Hsinchu and more than one ‘Lai Lai Dou Jiang’ in Kaohsiung – though both names originated from Taipei neighborhood and most likely unrelated to each other of the same name in terms of business connection. Lai Lai’s also possibly has a reference to Veteran culture, ie it was first created by Veterans or their family in their village around Taipei. Yonghe the name and the original store in Yonghe was created by a Taiwanese local.
If Dave has another photo , you may find ‘Guo Mao’ separated from ‘Lai Lai Doujiang’, and that would be the explanation. Also, that dark green dip (sauce) accompanied the baozi/dumpling – it could be Chinese Chive as you said if it’s got that distinctive taste, otherwise it is the green dark end part of scallions – the white and fresher green end are used for the stuffing/with meat, the rest go into home made sauces.
Posted by: Katy | 2011.07.13 at 08:16
kinda reminds me of what's in new england clam chowder or any chowder, usually salt and milk is involved.
southeast asia use coconut milk
and this soy base is a great healthy option, all these finds are good for the winter soul,
truely an epiphany. You guys are awesome Robyn/Dave.
Posted by: eastingfeasting | 2011.07.18 at 12:13
*sigh* this post makes me green with envy as I don't know if I'll ever get to go there myself to eat it... Can you get a recipe for me so I can make it myself?
Posted by: Chocolatesa | 2011.07.26 at 04:58
I've heard Soy milk can make wonders in some recipes due to its unique flavoring. It's hard to find it in the US, though.
Posted by: Collin | 2011.07.26 at 16:47
The dumplings looks appetizing, I am wondering where I can get the recipes to try this out?
Posted by: Gordon with Lower Back Pain | 2011.07.30 at 01:09
once again, i *hate* you. For showing me such deliciousness, out of my reach. love.hate.
I read abt this savoury soy milk breakfast topped by spicy chilli oil a long time ago but never saw such gorgeous photos. That froth, that oil, those pickles...it's not worth trying to replicate this at home, is it, without the fresh, homemade soy milk that is just - i am with you here - so wholesome, so delicious, so UNLIKE anything that comes from the supermarket it's not even worth describing.
And those humongous buns! And those pan-fried ones. the doughy crunchy bottoms. The dark green pickles!! (yup, you can see where the obsession lies). ARGGGHHH!!
Posted by: w | 2011.08.04 at 12:40
Hi Robyn, love your posts about Taiwan and especially the ones about Southern Taiwanese food. Thanks for this.
Posted by: Hsuan | 2011.09.17 at 17:40
I LOVE doujiang, baozi and youtiao in Taiwan! Love your posts and really fabulous pictures! These pictures reminded me of my childhood. Makes me want to fly over to Taiwan right now, it's just 2 hours away from Shanghai. Thank you for posting you guys are awesome ^.^~
Posted by: Stephanie | 2011.09.23 at 11:01
Hsuan, you're welcome. We love S Taiwan -- hope to get back soon.
Stephanie, nice blog you have there. Whereabouts in the French concession are you? We lived there '96-'98. I had a dream of opening a little 4 or 5-table restaurant taking advantage of local ingredients to serve the sort of food on your site. Thanks for stopping by!
Posted by: Robyn | 2011.09.23 at 11:43
Thanks for this post - I have lived in Taiwan for a while and love those breakfast shops, but I'd always just assumed 'xian doujiang' was salted doujiang and never ordered it. Tried it tonight after reading this post and it was just as good as you say! I'll be having it again...
Posted by: Broadbean | 2012.10.05 at 23:46
Great to hear we've inspired you to find something new to love in Taiwan, Broadbean! Thanks for reading.
Posted by: Robyn | 2012.10.06 at 11:01