Well Hello, Hamsi!

We love hamsi. If you've been a visitor here since last January you know this. You know that we journeyed to Turkey's Black Sea coast in the middle of winter just to eat hamsi -- anchovies -- at the source.

We're back in the region but still inland, in Kastamonu. Yet we've already had our first taste of the Black Sea's beloved cold season bounty, thanks to a few generous balıkçı (fish sellers).

What is it with Turkish guys who sell fish? They see you snap a photo or two of their product and they want to feed you.

When this bunch at the Sunday market in Kuzeykent, just outside Kastamonu city, saw Dave photographing the basket of beautiful hamsi perched over the grey coal ash in their grill one of them grabbed a thick piece of bread, loaded it up with cooked specimens from the pile on their dining table (opening shot), squeezed over some lemon juice and handed the lot over.

The fish were delicious, perhaps better even than those we ate at our fish seller friend Mert's shop in Sinop nine months ago. It's early in the season and hamsi are still small; these specimens were no longer than our little fingers. Their bones are still tender -- entirely, easily edible. We popped the fish into our mouths whole, though our new balıkçı friends carefully stripped the backbones from theirs.

After we finished our first shared slice of hamsi bread (köy ekmeği or village bread, from a dense, chewy wheat flour -based loaf baked in a wood-fired oven) the cooks threw strips of roasted red peppers onto a second open-faced hamsi sandwich. When a third was offered we had to beg for mercy.

This man, a regular at the market who -- like us -- was drawn from a far corner to this fish stall by the scent of hamsi cooking over an open fire, was happy to take up the slack.  

Comments

[Joanne]

These photos make me want to hop on a plane and fly straight over to get some of those delectable little fish for myself. Thanks for sharing.

[Snippets of Thyme]

It does look delicious. I'm sure I wouldn't hesitate to pop some in my mouth too! Thanks for the tour of this town in Turkey. I'm so curious about this country.

[Desiree]

They look supremely delicious! And, I know what you mean about taking pictures of the fish - that happened to me on the Eminonu!

[Turkey's For Life]

Mmmm, lucky you. Can't wait for next week so we can work our way through the mountains of hamsi we're going to order! :) I prefer them early in the season when they're still small like this.
Julia

[Lina]

I can't stand this. Looks delicious.

[Dan]

There's something beautifully simple but satisfying about this food - the best ingredients need no elaborate preparation. I'd love to see more food like this in the UK, offered simply on street corners! Thanks for a great post.

[Robyn]

Joanne, Snippets of Thyme -- If this sort of food appeals to you, think you'd love Turkey.

Julia - hope you're enjoying your hamsi as much as we're enjoying ours. This is our first go with the early season small ones ... as delicious as the January hamsi were these are even better.

Sorry Lina you'll just have to get yourself to Turkey to try some!

Dan - I so agree. We're finding many more dishes out here in the Black Sea region along these lines ... so simple, but made with stellar ingredients and supremely satisfying.

[bertN]

Do they season or marinade the anchovies before they grill them?

[Robyn]

The anchovies are sometimes lightly tossed with salt -- plain old iodized salt, mind you, nothing fancy here -- before they go into a grill basket. No oil or pepper. At least as we've eaten them.

[Carina /pocketvillage]

What a wonderful story Robyn, it's great to hear that the fishermen were so friendly to you after taking pictures. It's these kind of little experiences that make a travel recommendable and unforgetable. Thank you for sharing.

[Robyn]

Hi Carina -- Dave never photographs without asking permission or otherwise making sure everyone is comfortable with it. Which insures a positive experience all around. :-)

[tours china]

Put the fish on the newspaper！I don't think it is a good idea. Anyway, the fish looks quite appetizing...

[Elaine]

Hey, where are you guys? A little concerned after the quake...

[linda]

Hi Robyn, Dave. Are you guys still in Turkey? I hope you are safe from the earthquake.

[Robyn]

Thanks for asking after us, Linda and Elaine. We're in central eastern Turkey and fine. Worried for friends in Van though.

[Jasmine]

Glad to hear that you two are safe...and seeing your hamsi post just brings back so many memories of my Turkish trip

[tungsten carbide ring]

They see you snap a photo or two of their product and they want to feed you...
Your article very interesting, I have introduced a lot of friends look at this article, the content of the articles there will be a lot of attractive people to appreciate, I have to thank you such an article.