Blacksmithing for Real in Maraş

If you've ever purchased a fancy skewer or mottled copper kettle in the United States, there's a good chance it came from Kahramanmaraş, aka Maraş [pronounced mah-RAHSH], in southeastern Turkey.

Maraş was an impromptu stop for us, the last two days of 14 on the road in central Anatolia. It's a strange little city, closed and pretty conservative, and a bit off the tourist track (judging by the general lack of good lodging), both domestic and foreign. It's also, at first view, incredibly ugly, with low-rise concrete blocks lining all the roads into town.

But those concrete blocks hide a fantastic, though sadly deteriorating, old city with a genuine blacksmithing neighborhood. What's produced there is not for tourist consumption; it's mostly for export, and it's real, useable goods, not trinkets. Many of the shop are in century-plus arch-doored caverns, part of the old market down the street.

Dave's put together an audio slideshow of images from our time with the blacksmiths of Maraş. The photos are beautiful (yes, I'm biased), but we don't mean to romanticize this work. As one blacksmith, who pounds away with his brother in a workshop opened by their father (you'll see dad's black-and-white portrait, propped on a desk, in the second half of the slideshow) told me: "This is hard, hard work. It's hard on the body, and for not much money. I wouldn't have my son do this."

As if to prove his point he rolled up his shirtsleeve and unwrapped an ace bandage to show me his elbow and forearm, bruised and swollen from hours of hefting a sledgehammer. His brother stepped up, pointed to his chest, and said, "Like a rock." He handed me a hammer and invited me to test his claim. I settled for a punch instead. I was convinced.

See the slideshow here, and be sure to turn on your sound.

Comments

[Katy]

Quite daunting to think these guys live in the neighbourhood day in day out hefting sledgehammer. On one hand, you wish the tradition preserved and continued, but on the other hand, if modern technology can replace the damage done to the bodies - why should anyone stop it over an old fashion artistry piece of metal. But then that's also their meal tickets for generations. How long did you stay there for the material of the slideshow?

[Robyn]

Hi Katy -- this was shot on the run, over less than two days. We plan to go back though. Beyond the blacksmiths there are a few things about this strange city that we found intriguing. It's a place that doesn't seem to want to let you in -- which of course makes it appealing!

[Neil]

You must have really enjoyed yourself in Turkey. I must say that after watching that movie with Brad Davis "Midnight? " I have always been a little nervous about going to Turkey.

[Radhika]

Hi robyn !
Keep up the fantastic stories, its always a pleasure to stop by .
My husband and I are doing a three week long trip to turkey , we will be in istanbul for part of the time n then drive to the smaller towns and villages . Please share your must do eating experiences and restaurant recommendations . Thnks very much .

[Robyn]

We certainly did Neil, this was our 4th trip in less than 2 yrs and we're heading back in a couple months. It's nothing like the movie. ;-)

Radhika, whereabouts are you planning to do your drive? Turkey's a big country; our explorations have primarily been central Anatolia, Black Sea, southeast/east. I haven't been to the Med or Aegean area for over 10 yrs so can't help you there. (Although I do remember some great meals.) Hope you're leaving enough time in Istanbul. If it's your first visit, at least a week. And then it still won't feel like enough time. :)

[Radhika]

Hi robyn, thanks fr yr quick reply ! We do a week in istanbul so I would love to have ur suggestions fr meals. The remaining two weeks are with a tour agency that specialises in the lesser known towns and villages . Thank u !

[Robyn]

Hi Radhika - Check the Istanbul category on the sidebar, that's pretty much the sum our faves in Istanbul. Datli Maya is quirky but wonderful, definately go for the daily specials if available. And try the cookies and small baked goods on display (changing often as well) -- savory biscuits and sweet nibbles with regional influences, things you definately won't see in other bakeries around town. You must go to Besiktas for that bakery's aci badem (almond biscuits) and tahini spirals, and the kaymak at Pando. Also: Hayvore (lunch is better) or Mohti for Black Sea food, Hatay Sofrasi for southeastern food, and Halil in Kadikoy for fantastic lahmacun. All of these can be found on istanbuleats.com (a great resource overall). I'd also consider their kebab crawl in Little Sanliurfa, unless you're traveling to the southeast. Places I don't recommend: Karakoy Balik Lokantasi (awful, awful service not justified by the food), meyhanes on Nevizade Sokak (same). If you want a more local, delicious and reasonably priced meyhane experience go to Cukur, near Galatasaray Lisesi, check istanbuleats for address.
What's the name of the agency you're using, can I ask? Drop me an email if you'd prefer to answer that way. robyn.eckhardt@gmail.com. Have a great time! I know you will.

[radhika]

hi robyn,
thanks for all your help and tips. the tour we are using came recommended highly by our friends- called gurtours.com . please let me know if u need any more information. keep up the wonderful writing!

[Robyn]

You're welcome radkhika, and thank you for the info. Have a great trip!