In Istanbul, Nothing Special

An on-time touchdown and a friendly taxi driver from Malatya who cheerfully helped with our bags and wished us a pleasant day with a smile.

Milky blue skies and a gently warming sun. Through our window as we chased dehydration with ice-cold ayran, a sweet breeze with a hint of saltwater and just a lick of coolness. A jetlagged nap -- not too long, just enough.

A sublime lunch: pillowy little meat medallions, lightly crusted from the grill, accompanied by an intriguing dried chili-based sauce hinting at vinegar. "A secret recipe, like Coca Cola," said the kofteci when our companion asked after its ingredients.

A stroll through Karakoy and a ferry ride to Hydarpasa. Tea, because we were determined to stay awake the whole day and there is no better excuse to sit idle and stare at the water, and look at the now-quiet train station. (Sad to see waiting rooms occupied only by cats, the restaurant empty, the barber shop quiet).

A wander along the water to Kadikoy. Tea again, by the water again. A kilo of cherries purchased in the market and eaten in the park as a dog serenaded a shoe shiner, young couples, a group of guys getting lit on Efes, some housewives, and us.

The ferry to Eminonu, the Galata Bridge by foot and the funicular to Tunel. A late afternoon stroll down Istiklal, a spot of grocery shopping down the hill in Cihangir and a stop to say hello to Mehmet, our Istanbul fruit guy. Back at our apartment, artichoke hearts stewed in olive oil with fragrant young garlic, peas tossed with olive oil and slivers of fresh mint. A nectarine sky and the cries of gulls drifting through the window.

A not particularly special day in Istanbul. A perfect first day in Istanbul.

For more on our lunch -- Köfteci Hüseyin: The Cadillac of Meatballs

 

Comments

[Thyme (Sarah)]

Wonderful read. I wish I knew each and every one of those locations that you wrote. I have my travel books and we are trying to decide...2 of us or bring the kids too. Fall or Spring? Can't wait to read and hear more. You mentioned "winter clothing packing". Is it cold there or just warmer than Indonesia?

[Robyn]

Hi Sarah -- Istanbul is a very romantic city (IMO) but also very kid-friendly, as is traveling outside the city. Turks love kids ... your little ones would be welcome most anywhere. Fall or spring -- spring is probably a bit dicier, we heard this one was very rainy. But I suppose fall could be too.
We packed warm clothing bec. we are headed to Kars province, in the far northeast. Our time there includes a 7-day village-to-village hiking trip and we were told to prepare for "temperatures that can range from 30F to 80F". Otherwise - it's warm in Istanbul right now, light pants/short-sleeve t-shirt weather. Lovely.

[Ansel]

I'm told that a six pack of Efes will get the recipe for that sauce.

[Robyn]

Is that 6-pack for you or for him? ;-)

[naomi duguid]

that is just way too evocative - a very successful way of making us all green with envy!!!
You're going hiking? with guide? or? how fabulous.
xo
naomi

[Craig]

Keep hearing mixed reports on Istanbul, interesting read that!

[Turkey's For Life]

Awww, lovely. Just walked and sailed through that whole day with you. Enjoy.
Julia