It's a Man's World II: The Kars Sunday Grill

This is Sunday in Kars. Outside of the city, by the river and on hillsides, parked by the road, half-sheltered in the ruins of a church, hunkered beneath the castle -- groups of men, grilling.

Here and there are a few -- very, very few -- families (men, women, children) picnicing around their kebab-erias. But for the most part this is a man's world. On this day 95-98 percent of observed outdoor grillers and eaters are male. Here in Kars the American male's obsession with cooking protein over glowing embers is taken to a whole new level: women are excluded not only from the act of barbecuing, but from the enjoyment of the grill product as well. To a degree we've not yet observed elsewhere in Turkey.

What gives? Your guess is as good as ours.

We've been here in Kars since the middle of last week, heading out every morning to walk the area's stunningly beautiful electric green hills. We've broken our walks with plenty of tea breaks, thanks to the hospitable shephards and cowherds -- and yesterday, the hospitable manager of a hydroelectric power station -- we've met along the way.

The serious walking begins soon enough, when we embark on a multi-day hike. Food will feature prominently, in the villages we overnight in. Tune in next week for a taste of yöresel ev yemeği (regional home cooking).

Comments

[Thyme (Sarah)]

I am so curious (nosy). You'll have to find what is up with this bbq arrangement. I sure hope the women are having girl's nights out galore. Are you guys there for job or vacation. The hiking from town to town sounds awesome. I have my guide books and am planning...just have to find the $$

[Robyn]

Hi Sarah - I'm curious too! Kars is not the most conservative part of Turkey by far (women are everywhere, and seem pretty independent) so this was a bit surprising.
This trip is mostly work with a little play.
Thanks for commenting!
Robyn

[Turkey's For Life]

Wow. Can't wait to read about your multi-day hiking trip. Bet the scenery and the food is going to be amazing.

Maybe barbecue time in Kars is just the boys' day out. We've never been but we know a food blogger from Kars and she's never given the impression that it's conservative to the point that ladies don't get to play out. Interesting. Maybe you'll find out...

Julia

[Hester]

Excited to follow your multi-day hike! At some point, do you think you could post a map of your route, and the places you stayed / ate at? (If, say, someone like me wanted a suggestion for a hike of the same nature)

[Sarah]

Look how well dressed they are to go BBQing! That's almost as curious for me as the absense of women. Have a fantastic time hiking and sampling the local food.