KL Quickie II: Pan Meen

A quick trip down to Kuala Lumpur by road, three and a half hours down and the same back, two nights.

These jaunts are never initiated in the name of pleasure; there's something to do, an errand (or 50) to run, a bureaucratic formality to tend to. We pack our schedule tightly so as not to wear out our welcome at the homes of the friends who host us -- and, well, because we just really don't love KL anymore.

Meals aren't planned ahead, they're where and what we can squeeze in between stops but sometimes, as in the case of yesterday, geography and timing work out and we are able to revisit an old favorite.

Pan meen -- why oh why don't more foreigners, more visitors to Malaysia, know about this dish? If you order it "dry" -- the best way to eat it, I think -- it's a tangle of sturdy wide wheat noodles slicked with lightly sweet dark soy sauce and topped with chopped pork and slivered mushrooms and/or tree ear fungus. Daun manis, small sweet green leaves, too. The piece de resistance is deep-fried ikan bilis (tiny dried anchovies). A textural wonder that brings so much goodness to your mouth with each chopstick full -- all heightened by the green cilantro-lime-chili sambal that comes alongside.

Like most any "dry" Chinese Malaysian noodle  there's a corresponding soupy version. But we like the way the dry noodles maintain their bite and chew. We take our soup, floating a couple of pieces of tofu skin wrapped around fish paste and deep-fried, on the side.

If you find yourself in KL, seek out pan meen.And ask for extra sambal. There's a good version at the wonderful Imbi market. Our favorite -- because of the fish paste, the mushrooms sliced a bit wider than usual, and the larger ikan bilis which, after a bath in the oil, come out both crispy and chewy -- is in Section 17, a 15 or so minute taxi ride from KL Sentral Stesen. Details here.

Comments

[Nate @ House of Annie]

Not a big fan of pan mee, especially dry. We have a favorite soupy pan mee here in Kuching, at Expert Food Court in RH Plaza. He boils pork, chicken, and fish bones for four hours, making for an especially sweet and satisfying bowl.

[Robyn]

Interesting, Nate. Is it because the noodles are wide? Every foreigner I've introduced to the dish loves it.
(I'm not really fond of soupy noodles. Unless the weather is chilly.)

[Yirong]

Great post, ban meen is indeed an under feted dish. Curious what you guys think of Kin Kin Chilli Ban Meen?

[Robyn]

Thanks Yirong. We love chilies, especially that Sichuan style of oily chili paste, so of course we love Kin Kin. But we haven't eaten there in years. Is it still in the same location in Chow Kit ... and is it still good?

[Matilda Gregory]

And, that looks so delicious.. Pan mee is one of my favorite food ever. When i'll be back in Malaysia that would be the first thing to find. :)

[ChopinandMysaucepan]

Dear Robyn,

I have never quite warmed up to pan meen although I think it is quite tasty, whether "dry" or soupy version. I find many women in my family like it but not the guys. This could be Malaysia's answer to an Italian linguine / fettuccine bolognaise.

I agree that I don't quite enjoy KL like it used to after hearing all the dreadful crime happening and we are taking extra precautions when we visit family next month.

[Jenny@Connecticut Limos]

That looks so yummy! Great pic. Pan meen dry is the best way to eat it, for sure. I haven't eaten in in Kuala but at a restaurant in NYC, and it was fabulous. I have to get to Kuala to really taste it "in person."

[Alvinb77]

HI Robyn,

Can't believe I live a stone's throw away from this place and never tried it. I changed that status this morning and gave it a go. It did not disappoint! Thanks for writing about it (missed it the first round) this year.

Sure saves me the journey to drive over to Sunwaymas where another auntie serves up a great bowl.

[hotels near louisiana superdome]

Oh my goodness! That looks fabulous! I need to try. Thanks for the idea.

[Jeane M.]

This will be my very first dish if I happen to step into Malaysia. :D Love to try the dry and soup version, and now craving to have some of this.