Photography Expedition in Gorgeous NE Turkey (and a Feature in Feast Magazine)

The April issue of Australia's SBS Feast magazine includes our feature story on the cow-centric cuisine of Ardahan and Kars provinces, in northeastern Turkey. Included are 6 recipes, for a lentil-tomato soup with handmade noodles and croutons fashioned from the noodle dough; scone-biscuits made from ground dried corn; cherry tomato preserves; fresh pasta handkerchiefs with blue cheese; silky roasted eggplants stuffed with chopped beef; and rustic apple bars.

Doesn't sound much like the usual Turkish fare, does it? As our travels over the last few years have shown us, so much of what many think of as "Turkish food" is really only the tippy-top of the iceberg. Our Feast article is just a taste of what we've found out there, beyond Istanbul, on our road trips. We'll be sharing more in the coming months. 

***

We did part of the research and photography for our Feast article while on a "crash test" trek with Balyolu, an American-founded, northeastern Turkey-based social enterprise headquartered in Kars city. We found out about Balyolu a year ago, via Kickstarter.

We shun tours. But though we certainly do get out there on our own when we travel, we're not equipped to nor, I think, capable of navigating our way across kilometers of open country. We were intrigued by what Balyolu was offering: a very casual, low-key trek village-to-village. Sleeping in homes and eating (and cooking) with villagers. And so we gave ourselves a late 25th anniversary present by contributing to Balyolu's Kickstarter campaign at the maximum level. In June we set off for our second-ever tour. (The first was in Bhutan in 1998). 

That week was amazing. Northeastern Turkey is without a doubt the country's most beautiful region. It's just breathtaking. Wide open spaces. Craggy mountains, high plateaus, rushing rivers, placid lakes, Big Sky. In early June, when we were there, the region's lush greenness was complemented by sprays of yellow, white and purple wildflowers and random patches of unmelted snow. Herds of cows, shephards, cowboys. Oh, the sunsets, and the sunrises. (And then there was the food, the most wonderful cooking from village kitchens.)

A photographer's dream, as you might imagine. Dave was out the door most mornings by 5am (so much for a second honeymoon) and usually had to be dragged inside for dinners that started before nightfall.

We're heading back to Kars this June and we'd love for you to come along, as a participant in fantastic photography expedition that Dave is leading with Balyolu founder and National Geographic Explorer Catherine de Medici Jaffee.

Unlike the cooking / photography workshop near Istanbul that Dave is co-running in September, this week will be all about photography. Oh sure, cooking will be happening in villages, and you'll be able to join in if you'd like. And there will be photography of culinary subjects (bee keeping, cheese making, bread baking in a traditional tandoor). We don't compromise on meals, so that the food will be fabulous should go without saying. But the focus for the week will be on pumping up your photography, and on taking a big pictorial bite out of the region's landscapes, ruins, nature and daily life.

What's different about this expedition? One word: access. You'll overnight in villages (with a few nights in a boutique hotel in Kars), gain entre to artisan workshops, be led to secret ruins. You'll work on portraiture with individuals. You and your camera will go where you'd never go on your own -- and for that matter, where few if any other photographers have gone before. There will be a couple workshops, and lots of one-on-one coaching time with Dave. You'll leave with drop-dead images to add to your collection or portfolio, not to mention lots of good memories of a wonderful week with great folks in a beautiful setting.

(If you're anything like us you'll also leave with an extra pound/kilo or two.)

Best of all? A portion of the profits from the expedition will go to fund Balyolu's work in local villages; the organization offers entrepreneurial aid to rural women and sends village girls to school. (Read more about Balyolu and its activities on the website, here.)

We cannot wait to get back to northeastern Turkey. This 8-night/7-day expedition happens the first week of June. It's limited to six participants. You should be fit enough to get yourself and your camera equipment out to the field, but don't worry, there will be no all-day village-to-village hikes on this trip!

Have a look at the detailed itinerary below, then click here for the full brochure. To view some of Dave's images from our Balyolu experience last year go here and here.

Any questions? Shoot Dave an email: drhagerman [at] gmail [dot] com.

We would love to see you in Kars!

Comments

[thyme (sarah)]

What an incredible itinerary description. The tour sounds fabulously laid out. How I wish I could find a hidden piggy bank under my bed or closet to join in on this incredible trip. Are you planning any tours for 2014 yet? I'll keep practicing my photography!

[Robyn]

Hi Sarah - we wish you could join too! Definately yes on the food and photography workshops near Istanbul for 2014, and we'll know more about the possibility of another one of these later in the year.

[Araz sadakian]

Dear David Jan
Those NE Turkey regions are Armenian teretories, even the names are Armenian, Ardahan and Kars.
The villagers are or were Armenian decent. I'm sure you have a great knowledge about Armenian history and what happened from 1890 till now.
My dear David I wonder why " Gain entre to artisan work shops and be led to SECRET ruins " because they are all Armenian monistries and churches.
Thank you for reading my comment.
araz

[Robyn]

Araz,
Yes, the region's residents are of many backgrounds and ethnicities: in addition to people of Armenian descent there those of Kurdish, Molokan, Azerbaijani, Persian, Circassian and Russian ancestry. Perhaps others as well. In addition to Armenian ruins (Ani being the most famous) there is a Kurdish castle that we (David and I) know of, former Georgian churches and others known to the expedition's organizers.
Please note that by "secret ruins" we mean those not known to tourists, not written in guidebooks, not on maps -- ruins that the average traveler would never find on their own.
The region's multicultural character - something that its residents are proud to draw the attention of visitors to - is one of its most appealing traits. An understanding of the origins of this multiethnicity is something that expedition participants will take away with them. Perhaps, also, they may be inspired to venture further east in the future, to Armenia and Georgia. Our time in the region certainly planted those travel plans in our heads and we hope to visit Armenia later this year.
We are aware of the history of eastern Turkey, of the complicated relationship between Turkey and Armenia. But I am sorry, this isn't the place to engage in political discussions. We hope you understand.
Thank you for reading, and for your comment.

[Joseph Chaiwhan Kim]

In 2011, I had a chance to visit Turkey and eat some of the local food. It was different, but I really enjoyed the flavors and spices. I hope to visit again in 2014.

[cooking.eating.carousing.]

I'm a huge fan of SBS Feast mag, I will keep an eye out for your article.

I also found the Turkey honey experience in Kickstarter months ago. At the time my thought was "I wish there are more food experiences like this all over the world." You know, not just the stock standard "let's tour a winery and see how they make wine". But a more thorough, live with the people, do as the people do type of experience.

Less of a tour, more of an experience.

Perhaps this Turkey honey experience will inspire more entrepreneurs all over the world.

[Robyn]

CCC-- I agree! And the Balyolu is a fantastic experience. You just can't call it a "tour". I included them in the Guide for the Feast article.
We're hoping to offer similar "experiences" in Turkey at some point. And, on a much smaller scale, I hope that folks come away from George Town street food walk feeling like they've eaten with locals, as the locals do.

[ravens stadium hotels]

This made me want to get on a flight there NOW! You know Turkey is one of my all time favourite cities. Beautiful post!

[sankar]

i became know about kars through the novel 'snow' by orhan pamuk. it was awesome really. I
am interested to visit kars